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Last Temptation Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Charlie's Angel S,TR 
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 
Death & Taxes TR 
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 
Lobotomy S,TR 
Sunset Arete S 
Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 

Charlie's Angel 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Charlie Milligan
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010

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Charles Milligan on the FA of "Charlie's Ange...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


Bold 5.10- moves get you to an uncomfortably high first bolt (be careful!). Easier climbing leads to the base of an intimidating roof. Clip a well-placed bolt and crank over the huge roof on some signature Castle Rock "sloping jugs" (crux). Finish with 30 feet of easy slabbing, passing two bolt-protected 5.8/5.9 roofs (shared with "Chimps in Negligee").


Pretty much in the center of the crag. About 40 feet left of "Go I Know Not Wither". Look for a large, bolt-protected roof 20-25 feet off the ground. This is bolt two of "Charlie's Angel".


5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.

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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Apr 23, 2010

Though it's rated harder, I thought this route, while rated 5.11b, was noticeably easier than "Live Monkey Brain" (5.11a). But it's hard to compare the two, as a "Live Monkey Brain" is much more sustained than the one-move wonder "Charlie's Angel".

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