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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve McClure, Mike Doyle, Daniel DuLac, Sonnie Trotter in 2007 on preplaced gear.
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Oct 31, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Thrasher getting funky on Charlie.

Recently Purchased in 2017 by the RRGCC.


This is the strikingly beautiful, left-leaning dihedral about 50 feet right of Loompa. The route basically breaks down to a 12a to a hard V6 boulder problem protected by reasonable but slightly tricky gear.

Begin below a single bolt about 10 feet left of the corner. Make long but easy face moves past the bolt and reach right into the very wide crack. Jam your torso into the crack and worm and lieback your way to some good jugs and a leg-wrap rest. The crack starts to pinch off a bit but some large angular features and the occasional fingerlock or pocket provide just enough to keep things reasonable.

About 60 feet up, the good holds disappear and the dihedral steepens. Work a wide stem and make use of the small tips crack, and some nice pockets around a blunt arete to reach a final, decent fingerlock rest. Set up on two more tips crimps and spring for a huge jug just above the anchors.


50 feet right of Loompa.


Fixed gear- one bolt and two bolt anchor with carabiners.

Bring gear between and #4 Camelot to very small cams. Some nuts and RP's could be helpful too.

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By Steven James
From: Portland, Maine
Nov 3, 2014

In the red last October. (2013) This thing had spider webs in it that looked like they could stop humans from hitting the ground. Scariest things ever? The only thing harder than .13b trad is dealing with what are (most likely..) man eating spiders in the dihedral. And, -er-, well probably .13c trad routes too...

Looks stellar, hope I can climb this hard someday.
By Blake Allen Green
Apr 4, 2015

In fall of 2014, i added a perma draw to the higher anchor bolt, and a steel biner to the lower bolt to make cleaning the route easier.

I protect the crux with a triple 000 c3 and #3 wild country zero.

There are two no hands rests to take the sting out of things, and the climbing is fantastic. Almost every move on the route is enjoyable, with some options existing for different heights in most of the important parts.

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