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Charlie Horse 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 13'
Original:  Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Charlie Bentley
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Graham O. on Jul 26, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

I cannot say that this is a phenomenal climb. Nor can I say this a great climb, a good climb or a decent climb. This is a mediocre climb not worthy of the bomb solely because of it's unique movement. Don't get confused - this climb is still pretty crappy. Unless you love weird body positioning, sharp hand and foot (!) holds, extremely contrived climbing, and shin scraping falls, than this is just worth doing to get the tick. A clever name, though...

Crouch start same as Barnacle Bill (at the far right side of the crack) and follow Barnacle Bill up to that cool double jug/sidepull. At this point, the rest of the crack is off, as are both of the aretes. Grab a microscopic RH nubbin before scrunching your feet up to the crack. Crimp the tiny seam and bring your left foot up to a terrible nubbin. Bump to a decent gastone, and get your RF on the first hold you used on the slab (a fall from this point and above will result in a 8-10 foot cheese grate). Grab a decent LH sloper and bump it to a bad crimp. Latch the thank-God jugs on the lip and top out.

Location 

It starts same as Barnacle Bill, but at the halfway point, it punches up the slab.

Protection 

A few pads, spotter not mandatory but encouraged


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