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Charlie Don’t Surf 

YDS: 5.14a/b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a/b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Equiped by: ?, FFA: Mark Anderson, May 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 12, 2015

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Entering the crux bulge section.

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Description 

Charlie offers impeccable, Gunks-quality rock and an obvious, direct line in a spectacular position; however, a stark contrast in difficulty detracts somewhat from the route’s otherwise classic features. The line boils down to 5.11 jug hauling interrupted by a fierce, V11 boulder problem. Still, it’s a worthy challenge for those who have exhausted the better lines, those seeking a roped boulder problem, or those looking for minimal rigging shenanigans. Moisture can be a problem on this line, as indicated by the plentiful black lichen that streaks down the overhangs. During rain and snowmelt, the line is a waterfall, but key holds can remain wet from seepage for weeks afterwards.

Begin from the two-bolt anchor midway out the upper-left fixed line. Easy slab moves lead past a bolt to a steepening wall, split by a seam that ultimately expands into a large right-facing dihedral. Big jugs lead over tiered mini-roofs to a smooth patch of steep, clean pegmatite. Thrutch powerfully over this obstacle, using off-balance liebacks and underclings to reach a jutting jug-block at the base of the corner. Campus up and left out the toe of the hanging panel, paddling up huge quartzite jugs to reach an easy stance below the last roof. Step around the corner, and scramble to the top.

Location 

Charlie climbs steep bulges leading into the large right-facing dihedral on the left end of the cave. The line begins from a two bolt anchor midway out the upper-left fixed line (approach via the Bottleneck). This can be belayed from the Dirt Ledge, or from a two-bolt hanging belay located on the upper slab, directly below the dihedral.

Protection 

About 7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, currently all are fixed.


Photos of Charlie Don’t Surf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the crux, traversing out to the quartzi...
Just above the crux, traversing out to the quartzi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the brilliant quartzite panel.
Finishing up the brilliant quartzite panel.

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