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Charity Toad 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,547
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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View from first pitch belay


A nice link up that makes for an all bolted route to the exposed top of White Toad. The second pitch is nothing special as it is much like a side walk but it could get your nerves going if you aren't used to running it out on easy terrain.

Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case (5.9) to the anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow a very moderate line traversing right past 2 bolts (very run out, but moderate) to a really cool belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Finish up the 3rd pitch of White Toad to a chain anchor.

You can lower back to the belay ledge as you would on any other sport route. Then your second can clean it and one 60m rap will get you back to the ground. Tie knots in the ends of your rope cause not all ropes are created equal and its a 100 foot rappel.


Start as for Charity Case about 30 feet left of the start of White Toad (5.7).


Bolts all the way. I'd bring 10-12 draws and some gear to set up belays on the bolted anchors.

Photos of Charity Toad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the view
the view
Rock Climbing Photo: The airy 3rd pitch crux
The airy 3rd pitch crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch, easy short traverse. Not much more t...
Second pitch, easy short traverse. Not much more t...

Comments on Charity Toad Add Comment
Show which comments
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 29, 2009

It would be hard to find a more exposed 5.8 sport pitch then the third one on this link up. The route finishes with a short easy overhang with 150+ of air beneath you. Very fun.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 11, 2010

This is an awesome route in addition to the 2 bolts on the second pitch there is an old piton that look like it should hold ;)
By SmithBro
From: North Wilmot, New Hampshire
Feb 26, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I run pitches 1/2 together,and clip 1 more bolt on High roller with a runner.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 23, 2013

This is so fun! Definitely rap down from the belay ledge after the traverse. You won't make it down from the top.
By ChrisN
From: Morro Bay, CA
Sep 20, 2015

Didn't really see a reason not to combine the first pitch with the second pitch traverse.
By Alan Emery
From: Lebanon, NH
Aug 20, 2016

Lee, there are bolted anchors for the climb. You may want to remove the section in Protection where it is suggested to bring gear for anchors ... no need.

We combined the traverse and the 3rd pitch of White Toad together, just ran a 4' runner at the anchor for White Toad and there was no noticeable rope drag. We lowered to the anchors and down climbed the traverse for practice. Took the long way down, but it was fun and interesting. Nice exposure for down climbing.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 21, 2016

By gear I meant slings and locking biners. Sorry if that wasnt clear. I guess I can be more specific. I'll take care of it.

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