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Charismatic Mime 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Lee, Jon Skyes 2011
Page Views: 802
Submitted By: Jeffrey.LeCours on Sep 9, 2013

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Sydney above the overlap on Charismatic Mime

Description 

Belay and start from a flat dirt mound on the hillside, to the right of Oscar the Grouch. Head up the left side of the slab to a small ledge and the first bolt. Slab up past two more bolts before heading left and towards the horizontal overlap about a third of the way up. Place some gear and then step up onto the overlap and continue to a right angling crack seem. Continue up flakes near a bushy ledge and past a few more bolts to the anchors and a comfortable stance.

A second pitch (5.6) continues up the face past three bolts.

Location 

The left side of the slab that's right of Oscar the Grouch (which has a noticeable hand crack up high). Charismatic Mime has an overlap 1/3 of the way up.

Protection 

Mostly bolted but takes gear (I slotted #7 BD nut) at the overlap 1/3 of the way up. Additionally can take small gear (red BD C3) in the crack seem just past the overlap. Rap links at the anchor.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Up at Charismatic  Mime
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I've always felt the crux was up climbing the face, or "flakes" as described here, just left of the bushes. Nor do I remember any bolts (except the anchors) above this point (but that was a few years ago, maybe some added?) The climbing protected with medium cams, if I recall. (#0.5 -purple, and #1 - green Camalots)
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Mar 28, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was adding FA info to routes and noticed Jeffery had ticked "TR Top Rope" for this climb. Not sure how one could do this without a large circumvent of the whole cliff.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Apr 4, 2017

"You just gotta want it"

Point well taken (and corrected). I must have checked the box thinking well, Sydney followed it on top rope after I came down... which is clearly a different meaning.

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