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Biceps Wall
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008

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This route is often the rappel spot for those who come here just to rappel (nice long drop for it-just make sure your rope(s) touch ground!)

Pitch 1: 58 ft. Follow the crack through the chimney 'notch' (crux) to a ledge. Step right a move or two, then follow up and left on easier ground to a ledge with a sizeable tree (beware the Greenbriar!) You know you're close when you reach the grassy ledges. Pitch 1 is often wet because it is a natural drain for water in the rock.

Pitch 2: 52 ft. Climb straight up the face (not recommended) (or climb VI or V2) above to the top of the BIG MOMMA BOULDER.

V1: Chardonnay Variation Finish (5.9) Head right and a little up to a small roof (the "cave"). Pull to the right around this and follow the offwidth crack above to the top.

V2: Chardonnay Escape (5.5) Traverse straight right to a cave. Continue past this opening around the comer and then up to the top.

This route doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the Greenbriar bushes have been growing thick on some of the ledges. If you try this climb, PLEASE be careful and take care.


Start on the ground, below and a little uphill from the BREAKAWAY WALL, near a large tree, at a right-facing comer/crack/chimney-like "notch."


Protection is sparse to nonexistent at best. There is a chickenhead you can sling about 12 feet or so up, but a fall before, and most of the way after, will have you hitting the deck.

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