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Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcazar S 
As You Like It S 
Camelot T 
Chapalot S 
Cyberwanker S 
Finishing School S 
Forced Stress S 
Fort Stress S 
Gargoyle S 
No Name 1 S 
No Name 2 S 
Pitched Battle T,S 
Quartz Jester S 
Rupley Route, The T 
Sir Clipalot S 
Sneak Attack S 
Steel Crazy S 
Tres Frijoles S 
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 

Chapalot 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Witt & Scott Ayers (1996)
Season: Shade After 3 PM
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jul 21, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope and rock photo showing Chapalot.

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Chimney from the narrow slot to obtain the detached outcropping or simply walk around to start ten feet above. Commit to the the face, minding the gap, to reach the first bolt. Tenuous face climbing leads into a right-facing weakness, which is followed by a brief section of easier climbing. Smear on down-turned crystals while clawing for edges to overcome the second crux. Upon reaching a grungy looking pillar trend right, clipping two bolts, before finishing up the arete.

Chapalot is recommended for those who enjoy thin face. The rock prior to the arete is absolutely stellar; the rock on the arete is actually better than it appears. The bottom half of this route is sustained and delicate while the upper half has nice exposure.

Upon reaching the chains one can probably continue up by working behind the large pillar that Fort Stress ascends. From here one can join numerous other routes.

Location 

Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar is the left; Chapalot is the right.

Protection 

9 bolts to a chain anchor.

One can belay from either the shaded passageway or use a belay bolt on the detached outcropping 10 feet above the base.


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