Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(4) Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight T 
Beyond the Glory S 
Bitterroot T 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Ganesh  T 
Kung Fu S 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty T 
Whine and Cheese S 

Chaos 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin and Maggie Evansen, 2-05
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jay working through the crux

Description 

"This route's belay is where the main trail meets the rock wall. Follow the right-facing dihedral and pull left under the roof and up to a stance. The climb meanders up the prow to the anchor." - 2008 Ozone Guidebook

Location 

Far left of Gold Wall, below the prominent roof.

Protection 

Gear to 3", 4 bolts


Photos of Chaos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: ...now where are those anchors?
...now where are those anchors?
Rock Climbing Photo: kind of an awkward belay spot but a great climb
kind of an awkward belay spot but a great climb

Comments on Chaos Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kev
Apr 24, 2015

Love this route. My first route and the first route at the zone to have lead bolts put in....hence the name.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 7, 2015

Good route. This route protected well with nuts and a 1" and .75 cam.
Following the bolts closely up top felt more like reachy 5.9, cutting right at the crux was 5.8.
By das1405
From: Portland
Apr 11, 2016

Thanks Kev, really fun route! the crux felt more like a 5.9 to me as well, especially if you're under 5'10" (but was the most fun). going to the right was slightly easier and less exposed. Route protected well until you reached the bolts. Right D-link anchor was loose enough to spin but the bolt seemed secure, didn't worry me but felt it was worth mentioning.