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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,184
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

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Send burn on Chaos.

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This ascends a short, crimpy wall with a long reach off an undercling. It is fun climbing--many will feel it to be easier than advertised, but others will be put off by the size of the holds. Do it in July if it still feels too easy.


4 bolts. If you fall off close to the second bolt, you could hit the big ledge below.

Per Chris. T.: the second bolt needs to be replaced. The stud is quite loose in its hole.

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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 30, 2001

Call me a coward but after redpointing this the first time, I have always done it with the first 3 clipped. I advise anyone trying it to have a very attentive belayer as the ledge looks unfriendly.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 10, 2001

First off, this route spanked me. The first couple sequences are very tough (5.13 for sure), and they spit me off repeatedly. My one piece of advice for this route is to bring a stick-clip. Unless you are comfortable clipping off of tiny .13 crimps with bad feet it'll be pretty scary.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I don't think any of the clips are particularly tough or dangerous. At 5'9", I can get the first two with my feet on the good blocks down low. You have jugs for the third and fourth bolts, and it's maybe 11+/12- climbing anyway. Not trying to be that internet tough guy but rather encourage people to try this one. if I could just pull all the moves.

Edit: after finally putting this thing together, I would add that it's a very subtle route. Very slight changes in body position or momentum made the crux moves anywhere from impossible to very doable. I learned a lot on this one.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Oct 17, 2012

Fun and THIN. Enjoyable for a party trick of a route.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 10, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Cool little route, I kept thinking I would send it quick because it was so short and then spent plenty of time falling on a variety of different moves. Like Steve said, very subtle body positioning, the time I did it felt much easier than previous attempts; a slight shift in the hips made it all come together.

You don't need a stick clip for this one, you can clip the first two bolts from the first hold, and if you want you can clip up three from the second bolt.
By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Nov 22, 2014

Super thin and body-position specific. Worked this route for over a year trying to figure out the beta. Finally put it all together today; cold temps and wind definitely helped. Also I found clipping the 3rd bolt on the route to be pretty safe. I took multiple falls from the holds right at the 3rd bolt, and I never decked.
By Chris. T.
Apr 3, 2016

The second bolt needs to be replaced as of 4/2/16. The stud is quite loose in its hole.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thanks for the heads up, Chris, but you should contact the government about this. It is now their job to handle.

You can email them here.

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