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Chaos Out of Control 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Monty Reagan, Ken Pitts (1987)
Season: any
Page Views: 3,718
Submitted By: chummer on Aug 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...


I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.

The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.

One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.


Left side of the South Side.

This route is located up on the ledge with Dinkus Dog and Unfinished Concerto. Locate the obvious twin water grooves located to the right of Dinkus Dog and Parachute Woman.


You might need a large hand size (#2 or #3) piece down low. Lots of TCU's, a few bolts, tri cams are always helpful at the Glass.

Photos of Chaos Out of Control Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The characteristic thin edges that make up the dif...
The characteristic thin edges that make up the dif...
Rock Climbing Photo: JP and I at the first pitch belay. Photo credit to...
JP and I at the first pitch belay. Photo credit to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary making the thin moves to pull over the P1 cru...
Mary making the thin moves to pull over the P1 cru...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary getting into the fun water groove above the c...
Mary getting into the fun water groove above the c...

Comments on Chaos Out of Control Add Comment
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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 17, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

This climb is excellent! The rock is high quality. Heady moves above gear. Gear is pretty standard (every 10-15 feet or so)mostly thin, & sometimes questionable but mostly decent to good. Would not want to do this on a hot day. 2 bolts on 2nd pitch up to ring anchors. Can take up to top with another pitch and end at hemlock to climbers left.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 5, 2011

Great thin face climbing with a fun water groove finish. The groove is very well protected compared to Dinkus. Definitely want a #2 for up there and doubles in the medium hands and smaller with some tri-cams. The start is probably the most dangerous, but its over with quickly and there is gear. P1's bulge pull is well protected, but the section afterwards requires very specific gear otherwise it will be marginal and scary. Entire P2 is phenomenal climbing.
By chummer
May 28, 2012

Can be climbed and rapped on a single 80m if you got one.
By Phoffmann
Sep 11, 2012

The first pitch is scary and you should be solid at .10a tech face/ slab before you attempt it. Sandbaggers...
By Bryan Haslam
From: Asheville, North Carolina
Jun 18, 2014

Agree with Phoffman.... Back in the day, this route worked me and I felt it was poorly protected compared with Dinkus. Good climbing but be solid at the grade.

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