Chaos Crag is the large formation sitting downhill and south of Torreon and Mexican Breakfast it lies just above ENE of the Frog formation. Chaos has a large west face that is approx, 500 ft wide and 500 ft tall. The WSW is sunny and the route Edge of Chaos lies on the far left side of the formation on a more WNW aspect. The rock is quite good in general and you're almost guaranteed solitude on this formation. Fun adventure climbing!
Hike down the La Luz trail from the Crest parking area. I used the old La Luz/Direct route to get down to the forested slope that leads directly to the southern end of the Chaos formation. There is a bit of a climbers trail as you can use the same approach as for Mexican Breakfast if you're coming in from the La Luz Trail. Instead of hiking uphill and east to Mexican Breakfast, hike to the NW and up through a little col between Chaos and a small spire that sits to its south. The approach is about 1:10.
Climbing Season For the La Cueva Canyon, Upper area.
Weather station 0.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Chaos Crag
Edge of Chaos 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c New Mexico
: Sandia Mountains
: ... : Chaos Crag
The crux of this route is right off the starting ledge. The crux is a short 8ft boulder problem in order to gain the first bolt. The bolt is close and the ledge is big and flat, therefore it is safe to go for it, to get to the bolt only about 10ft up. The rest of pitch 1 traverses up and right for 20ft to gain seams and cracks that you then follow basically straight up for another 100ft to a large ledge and a tree belay. 120ft 5.11aPitch 2 - walk up a gully for 15-20 ft, chimney up and step ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
By Reed Cundiff
Sep 25, 2009
Dave Hammack and I did the face around 1960-61. The rock was excellent and the climbing was mid 5, maybe 5.6 or 5.7. We were not very imaginative in naming pinnacles. We certainly were not of the ability to do Karl Kiser's route
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 29, 2009
Reed, any idea where your route on Chaos Crag went. I would love to resurrect a good multi-pitch 5.6-5.7.