Chaos Crag is the large formation sitting downhill and south of Torreon and Mexican Breakfast it lies just above ENE of the Frog formation. Chaos has a large west face that is approx, 500 ft wide and 500 ft tall. The WSW is sunny and the route Edge of Chaos lies on the far left side of the formation on a more WNW aspect. The rock is quite good in general and you're almost guaranteed solitude on this formation. Fun adventure climbing!
Hike down the La Luz trail from the Crest parking area. I used the old La Luz/Direct route to get down to the forested slope that leads directly to the southern end of the Chaos formation. There is a bit of a climbers trail as you can use the same approach as for Mexican Breakfast if you're coming in from the La Luz Trail. Instead of hiking uphill and east to Mexican Breakfast, hike to the NW and up through a little col between Chaos and a small spire that sits to its south. The approach is about 1:10.
Climbing Season For the La Cueva Canyon, Upper area.
Weather station 0.6 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Chaos Crag
Duck Soup 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
R New Mexico
: Sandia Mountains
: ... : Chaos Crag
Duck Soup began life as a partial aid climb (5.9, A3) with short sections of hooking & thin nailing on P2 & P3 & a short bolt ladder over a red wall on P4. Established by Meleski & Bridgers in the summer of 1976 it soon drew the attention of Paul Horak & Mark Dalen who free-climbed that Fall to the base of P4, returning Spring 1977 with a new partner.In the scope of his lifetime I wonder if anyone even remembers Andy Embick's adventures in New Mexico. They fall between his exploits in the Kitc...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
By Reed Cundiff
Sep 25, 2009
Dave Hammack and I did the face around 1960-61. The rock was excellent and the climbing was mid 5, maybe 5.6 or 5.7. We were not very imaginative in naming pinnacles. We certainly were not of the ability to do Karl Kiser's route
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 29, 2009
Reed, any idea where your route on Chaos Crag went. I would love to resurrect a good multi-pitch 5.6-5.7.