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Chaos Crag

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Duck Soup T 
Edge of Chaos T 
Mucho Jale T 

Chaos Crag Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 9,150'
Location: 35.2081, -106.4545 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,172
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Kear on Aug 31, 2009
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Chaos Crag is the large formation sitting downhill and south of Torreon and Mexican Breakfast it lies just above ENE of the Frog formation. Chaos has a large west face that is approx, 500 ft wide and 500 ft tall. The WSW is sunny and the route Edge of Chaos lies on the far left side of the formation on a more WNW aspect. The rock is quite good in general and you're almost guaranteed solitude on this formation. Fun adventure climbing!

Getting There 

Hike down the La Luz trail from the Crest parking area. I used the old La Luz/Direct route to get down to the forested slope that leads directly to the southern end of the Chaos formation. There is a bit of a climbers trail as you can use the same approach as for Mexican Breakfast if you're coming in from the La Luz Trail. Instead of hiking uphill and east to Mexican Breakfast, hike to the NW and up through a little col between Chaos and a small spire that sits to its south. The approach is about 1:10.

Climbing Season

For the La Cueva Canyon, Upper area.

Weather station 0.6 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Chaos Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Chaos Crag from the La Luz. The roof is on the rig...

Mucho Jale 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  New Mexico : Sandia Mountains : ... : Chaos Crag
If you're into roof cracks, this one is amazing and well worth the little jaunt down the La Luz. We did it in two trips; the first time up the roof, we aided it and the last person (George) cleaned a lot of loose rock out of the roof crack, setting it up for free climbing. From above the roof, Will pioneered a new pitch that went up and left to almost the left end of Space Ledge. We continued up the last two pitches of Metamorphosis (see Mike Hill book, easily linked with a 70) to the top of...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Chaos Crag Add Comment
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By Reed Cundiff
Sep 25, 2009
Dave Hammack and I did the face around 1960-61. The rock was excellent and the climbing was mid 5, maybe 5.6 or 5.7. We were not very imaginative in naming pinnacles. We certainly were not of the ability to do Karl Kiser's route
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 29, 2009
Reed, any idea where your route on Chaos Crag went. I would love to resurrect a good multi-pitch 5.6-5.7.

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