Chaos Canyon Rock Climbing
Nancy Bell on the approach to Chaos Couloir.
This is an organizational entry for RMNP mixed/ice to help clarify the database and potentially entice those with more knowledge to submit more info on routes upstream from Chaos Creek. At times, there is clearly a long line that forms at the high end of the canyon above Lake Haiyaha. I've heard rumors of ice above Lake Haiyaha. Clearly, some determination will be required to travel above Chaos Creek
Just for clarity, this is the canyon/drainage to the south of Hallett Peak.
From the eastern side of RMNP, drive Bear Lake Rd to its end. For Chaos Creek
hike to Nymph Lake with some bushwhacking. There is a side approach from the trail between Nymph Lake & Dream Lake which may require crossing some fairly-steep, snow-loaded slopes. There is a summer trail that goes left from Dream Lake to Lake Haiyaha, but it may not get packed down much in the colder months.
Climbing Season For the Bear Lake Trailheads area.
Weather station 9.5 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chaos Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chaos Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chaos Canyon:
Featured Route For Chaos Canyon
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Chaos Creek
This is the far right side (labeled 5 in the topo) of the upper ice curtain of The Luge (WI1 or WI3) of the upper tier of ice at Chaos Creek (first described by B. Gillett in his excellent RMNP: The Climber's Guide). It may be considered a variation to The Luge, but its difficulty seems unrepresented by The Luge's rating. It is best done as a TR as the ice is thin, the protection sparse, and the climbing sustained. It is an option if you've come...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Mid May in Chaos Canyon.