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Clough State Park
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Changing Tides 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: Brad Fauteux on Jul 17, 2016

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Brad catching the crux throw on the FA of Changing...

The Spraydown 

A sloper power problem.

Sit start with a left hand undercling, a right hand sloper with a decent crimp seam in it, a left heel toe cam underneath the boulder and the pedestal. Wedge it in there good and use your right foot to press and gain opposition. From here pull off the ground with difficulty and reach up high left hand to a bad and sharp sloper. Latch it and grab the small thumb catch.

Take the toe cam out and get your right foot good, then with the left foot get a toe hook/ scum out left. From here pull in tight and grab another sloper with the right hand.

Release the toe scum and use a small edge for the left toe and dyno right hand to a poor hold.
From here match with difficulty and move the right hand right to edges and better holds.

Top out with ease and enjoy the flat boulder summit and the view of Clough!

There's the spray down, now you just have to get up to it and send it...


Location 

This climb is well secluded from the rest of Clough, and only real dedicated climbers will be interested in getting on this line.
There are a few different ways to approach this climb.

1. From Mammoth Rock: Hike uphill towards "It Came From Beneath the Sink" and then walk left towards a big boulder with a large crack near the bottom and a fallen tree. Keep walking past this boulder until you see a passable way right and up the hill further. from this section of the hill seek a corner between the cliffs where there are a bunch of flat edges and jugs.
Climb up and top out with some tree roots and go left along a sketchy shelf. With two people it is best to hand the pads up or use a rope to pull them up. Follow the shelf left and reach the Clough Classic "The Devil's Steps".

2. From "The Perry Problem" Hike uphill and rightwards. enter a clearing into the sunlight with a cluster of small boulders, hike up and right to a big crack/ off-width and move right around a shelf, and down a set of four steps. You will have to drop your pads in order to use the steps. From the bottom of the staircase walk up and left past a crack/ dyno problem and reach the climb "The Devil's Steps".

From here climb up using a hemlock tree and a good rock feature out left. Match the tree and pull around and press up using the slab to the left for a hand.

Stand up and walk up and left and this boulder is shaped like a warped super-ball that sits on top of a small rock pedestal.

Protection 

1 pad and a spotter. There is a pit that drops about 10-15 feet behind and left of the problem. While cleaning it my left foot slipped down and I caught myself on two trees. The pit isn't too dangerous while on the actual climb. Our Mad Rock R3 was sliding towards it though.


Photos of Changing Tides Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad holding on to the terrible slopers preparing ...
Brad holding on to the terrible slopers preparing ...

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By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jul 18, 2016
rating: V7 7A+

Worked this a bunch with Brad and Jake. It doesn't look like much but its a pretty cool climb. We were all fighting hard for the First Ascent and Brad just went beast mode and sent! As far as grading goes the only thing I can compare it to is Minion, which is V8. Colder weather might make it feel a grade or two easier but as far as yesterday goes. Brad has sent the hardest thing in Clough.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 18, 2016

I would love to see a photo of this climb as well as devil's steps!
By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Jul 18, 2016

Pictures are up now Matt!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 19, 2016

Cool, nice work guys, both look awesome!

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