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Routes in The Cliff Boulders
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Boom Sauce V3 6A R |
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Changing Tides V8 7B |
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Devil's Steps, The V4 6B |
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Ghost Next Door, The V5 6C PG13 |
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Here Comes the Boom V6 7A |
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It Came From Beneath The Sink V5 6C |
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Natural Flow V5 6C PG13 |
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Root of Ethics, The V10 7C+ |
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Satan's Alley V2-3 5+ |
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Sleigh Ride V6 7A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
| FA: | Brad Fauteux |
| Page Views: | 836 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Fauteux on Jul 17, 2016 |
| Admins: | Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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The Spraydown
A sloper power problem.
Sit start with a left hand undercling, a right hand sloper with a decent crimp seam in it, a left heel toe cam underneath the boulder and the pedestal. Wedge it in there good and use your right foot to press and gain opposition. From here pull off the ground with difficulty and reach up high left hand to a bad and sharp sloper. Latch it and grab the small thumb catch.
Take the toe cam out and get your right foot good, then with the left foot get a toe hook/ scum out left. From here pull in tight and grab another sloper with the right hand.
Release the toe scum and use a small edge for the left toe and dyno right hand to a poor hold.
From here match with difficulty and move the right hand right to edges and better holds.
Top out with ease and enjoy the flat boulder summit and the view of Clough!
There's the spray down, now you just have to get up to it and send it...
youtu.be/ma9DTF9yGxM
Sit start with a left hand undercling, a right hand sloper with a decent crimp seam in it, a left heel toe cam underneath the boulder and the pedestal. Wedge it in there good and use your right foot to press and gain opposition. From here pull off the ground with difficulty and reach up high left hand to a bad and sharp sloper. Latch it and grab the small thumb catch.
Take the toe cam out and get your right foot good, then with the left foot get a toe hook/ scum out left. From here pull in tight and grab another sloper with the right hand.
Release the toe scum and use a small edge for the left toe and dyno right hand to a poor hold.
From here match with difficulty and move the right hand right to edges and better holds.
Top out with ease and enjoy the flat boulder summit and the view of Clough!
There's the spray down, now you just have to get up to it and send it...
youtu.be/ma9DTF9yGxM
Location
This climb is well secluded from the rest of Clough, and only real dedicated climbers will be interested in getting on this line.
There are a few different ways to approach this climb.
1. From Mammoth Rock: Hike uphill towards "It Came From Beneath the Sink" and then walk left towards a big boulder with a large crack near the bottom and a fallen tree. Keep walking past this boulder until you see a passable way right and up the hill further. from this section of the hill seek a corner between the cliffs where there are a bunch of flat edges and jugs.
Climb up and top out with some tree roots and go left along a sketchy shelf. With two people it is best to hand the pads up or use a rope to pull them up. Follow the shelf left and reach the Clough Classic "The Devil's Steps".
2. From "The Perry Problem" Hike uphill and rightwards. enter a clearing into the sunlight with a cluster of small boulders, hike up and right to a big crack/ off-width and move right around a shelf, and down a set of four steps. You will have to drop your pads in order to use the steps. From the bottom of the staircase walk up and left past a crack/ dyno problem and reach the climb "The Devil's Steps".
From here climb up using a hemlock tree and a good rock feature out left. Match the tree and pull around and press up using the slab to the left for a hand.
Stand up and walk up and left and this boulder is shaped like a warped super-ball that sits on top of a small rock pedestal.
There are a few different ways to approach this climb.
1. From Mammoth Rock: Hike uphill towards "It Came From Beneath the Sink" and then walk left towards a big boulder with a large crack near the bottom and a fallen tree. Keep walking past this boulder until you see a passable way right and up the hill further. from this section of the hill seek a corner between the cliffs where there are a bunch of flat edges and jugs.
Climb up and top out with some tree roots and go left along a sketchy shelf. With two people it is best to hand the pads up or use a rope to pull them up. Follow the shelf left and reach the Clough Classic "The Devil's Steps".
2. From "The Perry Problem" Hike uphill and rightwards. enter a clearing into the sunlight with a cluster of small boulders, hike up and right to a big crack/ off-width and move right around a shelf, and down a set of four steps. You will have to drop your pads in order to use the steps. From the bottom of the staircase walk up and left past a crack/ dyno problem and reach the climb "The Devil's Steps".
From here climb up using a hemlock tree and a good rock feature out left. Match the tree and pull around and press up using the slab to the left for a hand.
Stand up and walk up and left and this boulder is shaped like a warped super-ball that sits on top of a small rock pedestal.
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