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Chancellor Direct T 

Chancellor Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: David Stephenson on Mar 25, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Stu Scott leading Chancellor Direct P1

Description 

One of the best routes of the grade on the Pipes. The route starts at the clean right facing corner located at the foot of the LHS of Avalanche Couloir.
1. 38m 17 Great bridging up the corner (crux) to the overhang, which is passed on the L. A strategically placed cam in the rope-sized crack on the lip can prevent a rope snag. Up the left facing corner above to belay at the top of the detached pillar.
2. 22m 16 Climb the crack above passing a thinner section through a bulge. When the crack ends move up and right past some loose blocks to a large ledge. DB abseil anchors are on the right at the top of Carpe Diem.

Protection 

Standard rack of cams and wires. A first cam placed low on the left at the start can prevent the wires that project the crux section from ripping out in the event of a fall. Double bolt anchors allow 50m rap to base.


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