REI Community
East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birth Simulator T 
Chambered Nautilus S 
Coral Bells Arete T 
Daily Diatribe T 
Deltoid Force T 
Leftoverture T 
Lost But Not Forgotten T 
Mega Worthy T 
Moral Bells Arete S 
Oopsie T 
Overture T 
Pump Up the Jam T 
Raspberry Ripple T 
Strong Persuader T 
Sweet and Low S 
Teflon Technique T 
Touch of Teflon T 
Worthy Whoopsie S 

Chambered Nautilus 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1995
Page Views: 10,078
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (320)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
workin the flake... this is where I got stumped on...


This climb is just right of the obvious "Coral Bells Arete". It climbs the north overhanging face. The roofs will tax you, but it is not as hard as it looks. My **** rating may be influenced by the fact that this was my 1st 5.10 and an onsight.


2 chains for the top. 7 draws for the climb. 1st bolt is kind of high and awkward. 1 runner.

Photos of Chambered Nautilus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof of Chambered Nautilus (5.10a). Photo by C...
The roof of Chambered Nautilus (5.10a). Photo by C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting after leading
Resting after leading
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the bottom
Looking up from the bottom
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun Climb
Fun Climb
Rock Climbing Photo: At the finish.
At the finish.
Rock Climbing Photo: Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
Rock Climbing Photo: 1)  Coral Bells Arete  2)  Chambered Nautilus  3) ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered Nautilus 3) ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bel...
BETA PHOTO: Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Chambered Nautilus
Climbing Chambered Nautilus
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh yeah
Oh yeah

Comments on Chambered Nautilus Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2016
By Lee Gitlin
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Seven bolts long, this fantastic route has a little of everything. A bouldery beginning, some balance moves, laybacking off flakes, and a burly roof pull below the anchors. One hint: find the well-chalked undercling to unlock the roof sequence.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 4, 2004

Bring a runner for bolt 5.
By Leroy Fielding
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pretty fun route. I don't think the last bolt is necessary, it is an awkward/unnecessary clip, but nonetheless a fun route.
By Awatubi
Jun 21, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The last bolt is awkward...if you look a few feet down and right from it you will see a bolt that has been chopped/sheared. This may have been the original (and much more logical) clip.
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Jun 26, 2007

Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy?
By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For a steady 5.10 climber this climb will seem pretty easy.
By McRae Williams
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good sustained climbing. Definitely takes a little thinking out here and there. A good first 5.10 for sure. quality route.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb. Akward moves getting to the 3rd bolt (this is my crux if not THE crux). Well it was akward when 5.10a/b was my limit...

+1 on not clipping the last bolt, forget the bolt and concentrate on finishing the roof!
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jul 7, 2009

Great route! Some nice stemmy movements down below with great high steps. Balancy moves with side pulls that could go all the wrong ways without the right pivots. Lee Gitlin gave a nice bit of beta on this with that undercling being the key to unlock the roof, allowing the feet to get up high so you can clear it. The only downside to this route is it seems too short once you clear the roof. I wanted MORE!
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009

Great climb, pulling the upper roof is definitely the crux. Go big, you're well protected!
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Big moves to big jugs and some sweet roofs. Sport wankin' in BCC couldn't get any better.
By Andrewprime1 Arredondo
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this a few weeks ago on my first day of outdoor lead climbing. It was an awesome route and I would really recommend it. Getting past the roof is def the scariest part, but it is actually pretty easy if you find the undercling and get your feet nice an high.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really well protected route. The first bolt is very high though, and the start is bouldery. A stick clip would be a good idea. Folks are right about the 3rd to last bolt needing to either be unclipped or use a long runner. There is also a really good rest, right before the roof. You could have a sandwich before heading over the roof...
By jimmy6
Apr 20, 2012

Does the route just right of Chambered Nautilus, the crack in corner have a name and rating?
By grk10vq
Apr 20, 2012

birth simulator .6
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 1, 2012

Missing some red/white/black scarpa feroce shoes size 10. Last seen beneath chambered nautilus/coral bells arete...reward will be beer (or slurpee if you're LDS). shoot me an email please...
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great fun climb! Sidepulls make you think about your body movement, as they all seem to angle off in the wrong directions. Fun pulling the roof!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb with a bit of everything as mentioned. Boulder-y start, thin flake, and a small roof. Beta has been given, nothing more to really add. Definitely worth doing, a great first lead for the aspiring 10a leader.
By Super Fluke
From: Earth
Jun 28, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great Climb, well worth doing. First bolt a little precarious. Bolt 5, recommend a longer draw.
By Cassidy Thomas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 24, 2016

Unfortunately I think it's a case of too little too late when it comes to the rap rings on the anchors. I think something should be placed up there fairly soon, even if its just a burley set of links. I didn't feel comfortable clipping into those rings when it came time for me to clean the route.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About