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Feb 29, 2004
Here is a really fun link-up, which ends with Challenger, so I'm listing it here.It's possible (via several different ways) to go from just above the Mesa trail to just below the summit ridge of Green Mtn, almost entirely on solid Flatironrock. After some experimentation, I've decided that for me the following is themost aesthetic way to do it. Thought I'd post it here in case anyone else is intothis sort of thing.
Start with Regency Slab (both pieces). After the 10' downclimb continue straightWest and you'll get to an F2 or so chimney slot, which deposits you at the baseof the East face of Royal Arch.
Climb the E. face of Royal Arch. The West side is downclimbable for better climbersthan me (30 feet or so of 5.6). When I was last there there weren't any anchors (justa single hangerless bolt). In this case, it's easy to reverse the top part of the E. face and step to the south arriving at a spot very close to where hikers oftencongregate.
Now walk a couple of hundred yards (this is the longest walk you have to do) downthe Royal Arch trail to the N. until you pass the bottom of Tangen Tunnel and thestart to the first piece of the Fourth Flatiron.
Climb the first piece of the Fourth Flatiron, and then get onto the second piece atthe standard start.
Don't, however, do the standard route on the fourth. Stay to the right, on clean rock. The central gash for which the standard route heads is 100' or so to your left,and you basically climb straight up from the start (the standard route traversesleft from the start). Above you after several hundred feet is a big (3') crack witha tree in the bottom. To the right of that is a nice looking crack diagonalling right,which I haven't climbed. The 3' crack splits a steeper section. You can getinto this crack and do an easy chimney with big holds about 30' past the tree atthe bottom (I'd estimate F5 in difficulty, if that). Above this are some more trees,and you're past the steep section on normal Flatiron steepness. Diagonal right at this point and step into Fern Alley (an F2 in Roach's guide) about 60' from itsstart.
The wall to the right (north) of you is the start to the E. Face of G. Mtn Pinnacle. Do thisroute according to Roach's description. If you have a rope, you can rappel off the topto the West, otherwise don't go all the way to the top (or reverse the last part, aswith Royal Arch), and step into the big crack that splits Green Mtn. Pinnacle (that contains Green Mountain chimney). Walk through this until you emerge at the West at the base of Challenger.
Now climb Challenger.
What I do at this point is continue on to the Eastern summit ridge of G. Mtn. Fromhere it's a super nice hike, staying slightly to the W and crossing several easyshoulders of the mountain, to join up with Greenman trail as it descends from thesummit (you're close to the summit at this point). I then just follow the Greenmantrail down Gregory Canyon, and back to Chautauqua trailhead that way. The directdescent from the summit of Challenger, back to the Royal Arch trail, has never appealedto me. This way is a little longer, but much nicer. If you feel like it, you can angleto the West near the top of Gregory Canyon, and cross over to Flagstaff for a littlebouldering on the way down.
FWIW - I think this is one of the best Flatirons days I've had!
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004
|Great link-up Greg. I have done this same one as well but had to split it into two days. The Challenger would be climbed for P2. P1 is uninteresting except for a sling on a tree branch for pro. P2 has a serious runout and would be better if brushed or if more popular. Combining the grit, runout, and lichen, I'd rather tell someone it was 5.5 friction slab so they'd have better beta. - Jay P.|
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 22, 2011
|Either Green Mountain Pinnacle should be in North or this this should be in Central? Either way, to find Challenger if you've never been over here first find D&T on GMP and the walk uphill for 50 yards or so.|