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Rose Hill Crag
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Chalkless Test Monkey S,TR 
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Chalkless Test Monkey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Forest Hill, Jason Schrack, James DeRoussel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Jan 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jason climbing on the first ascent

Description 

Chalkless Test Monkey is currently the left-most of six routes as you face the crag. It starts under two large bulges near the middle of the wall. It is isolated from the other five climbs.

Climb difficult, bouldery start over two bulges to a large sloping ledge. Continue up friction slab above, following shallow seam, then trending right to anchors.

Protection 

4 bolts, Chain anchor.


Photos of Chalkless Test Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Forest on the first ascent
Forest on the first ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing on the first ascent
Climbing on the first ascent

Comments on Chalkless Test Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
May 12, 2003

bouldery fun start but after slopey ledge a fair amount of rock was flaking off on the friction moves. secure those feet if you don't wanna get scraped up!
By Jason Schrack
May 12, 2003

The route is a bit grainy due to the fact that it is new, however, if you stay in the seam it isn't too bad.
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jul 9, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think I climbed this route right after you guys put it up. Back then it was still a slightly crumbly but I am sure it has cleaned up really nicely by now.. I loved the bouldery start and the slab was fun. I walked over there and saw a bolted route that wasn't in my guidebook..I did it ...i liked it...and if i'm there again I'll do it again.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Unfortunately, the Willow Canyon area has been closed since just a few months after we finished putting this up, so it's likely in nearly the same condition it was in back then.

FWIW, I was pleasantly suprised at how fun this route turned out to be.

It's made even better since there's not a whole lot of good 5.9-ish slab climbing on Mt Lemmon (granted, I haven't been up to friction rock yet, so I'm not including that.) The only other one that comes to mind is Chiboni, which I'd have to say is certainly better than CTM
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Also note that the anchor bolts on this climb are not stainless steel. They're so new, that this is fine for at least another 3 - 5 years, but as soon as I'm able to head out there, I'd like to replace them with some stainless bolts. All the other bolts are stainless 3.5" x 3.8" rawl 5-piece

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