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Chalk-Up Matilda T 
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Chalk-Up Matilda 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Palen & Paul Brown Nov 1994
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: photo 5 - on crux

Description 

For my money..pretty close to a 4-star route.

Climb up the left side of the corner (photos) then step out left and up the beautiful crack. (photos)
Rap with 2 ropes from the fixed anchor on the cedar tree.

Photos of an ascent in Sept 2005

HISTORY- Sheila and I were in with Ed Palen in the early fall of 1994 (or was it '93 ?). Ed was cleaning the big inside corner that would become P1 of "3D". Sheila and I climbed up the big, vegetated corner/chimney system (about 5.5 ?) to the left of what would become "Chalk-Up". The beautiful crack of "Chalk-Up" beckoned, BUT the top of the crack, where it opened to become sort of a "V" was just packed and packed with dead, rotting leaves. [photo 8] I could just see successfully getting up the crack and then "buying the farm" on slippery leaves, or the mud beneath.
Ed cleaned the route and snagged the FA.

Location 

As the hiking trail from ADK lodge/Marcy Dam drops down to the lake, look for a climber's path up to the right.
The climb starts in, and is just left of the big, ugly corner/chimney (FA R Hall & S Matz 1993 or 94, somehow I don't think anyone wants to repeat it!

Protection 

Std rack - medium cams and finger-sized nuts work well.


Photos of Chalk-Up Matilda Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 8 - In 1994 the "V" was just packe...
BETA PHOTO: Photo 8 - In 1994 the "V" was just packe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 7 - S Matz follows - near / at crux
BETA PHOTO: Photo 7 - S Matz follows - near / at crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 6 nearing the top
Photo 6 nearing the top
Rock Climbing Photo: photo 4 - the ledge below the crack
BETA PHOTO: photo 4 - the ledge below the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 3 -
BETA PHOTO: Photo 3 -
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 2  M.M. on Chalk-Up
BETA PHOTO: Photo 2 M.M. on Chalk-Up
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 1  Mark M. starting Chalk-Up Matilda
BETA PHOTO: Photo 1 Mark M. starting Chalk-Up Matilda

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