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Chalk Bomb Antics S 
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Chalk Bomb Antics 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Tim Sichel (April 17, 2016) DIRECT: KF and Thom Corrado (May 12, 2017)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Apr 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Sorry, forgot to take a real picture of this one.....

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Description 

A very awesome pitch with two variations.

Start at the toe of the arête and make your way up to the roof.

V1: Traverse right and up under the roof on thinning holds until you can power up to the money jugs.
V2: Direct: after the second bolt, find an undercling and clip a high bolt on the left. Then make powerful core-intensive moves straight up to the money jugs.

A tricky mantel leads to 15 feet of easy terrain and a stance. Chalk up and catch your breath for an increasingly cruxy length of climbing that doesn't stop until a nice jug above the chains.

Both variations are around the same grade. The direct version is shorter but definitely punchier.

Named for the fistfulls of chalk heaved at a giant wasp nest to get them to fly away during the first ascent. My apologies for anyone at the cliff that day who may have heard the nonsense but hope you had a good laugh at my expense.

Location 

Starts just right of Doug the Subway Fugitive on the Hidden Ledge. There is a belay bolt 8 feet to the right of the anchors. Starting to the right or left of the belay bolt both work.

Protection 

Quickdraws. 8 bolts and ring-bolt anchor. Clip the third bolt long to avoid rope drag and make sure you have plenty of chalk in case you have to smokescreen some wasps.


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