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Chaka Khan  

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kurt Albert, 1985
Page Views: 14
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2015

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Contemplating the mid-way roof.

Description 

This forgotten line is neglected for good reason. The climbing is awkward, the bolts are far apart and poorly located, and quite simply, there are far better routes at the same grade on this wall.

Tricky moves on suspect rock lead into ankle-breaker territory at the first bolt. The climbing eases below the low roof, which can be skirted to the right, but is fun and fairly easy to tackle directly. Move left through black rock, then run it out up to the top, groping up sloping slots as the pump grows.

Location 

This second route from the right. This one has a plaque.

Protection 

Not enough bolts to a distant, fixed anchor.


Photos of Chaka Khan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof on good holds.  The redpoint crux...
Pulling the roof on good holds. The redpoint crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering up Chaka Khan.
Bouldering up Chaka Khan.

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