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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA -unknown, FFA Jeff Thomas, Chris Jones, Alan Watts -July 21, 1979
Season: All except summer
Page Views: 1,398
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006

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Karsten climbs the beautiful 2nd pitch dihedral.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This underated climb is a fine outing that can be done as two pitches or as one long pitch with a 60m rope. The crux comes where you expect on the brilliant 2nd pitch dihedral.

Pitch 1: Begin to the right of Ride the Lightning in a left facing dihedral up to the base of the book.

Pitch 2: Use stemming, palming, fingerstacks to make your way up the perfect corner. You'll be wishing there was more.


Rap with two ropes.


Nuts and cams to one inch. Bolted anchor at top.

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By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Nov 12, 2013

The first "pitch" is basically 5.5 choss that doesn't take much, if any, solid gear.

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