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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass S 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Chainsaw Willie 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: David Babich, 1982
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 4, 2013

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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Crux near the ground where a crescent-shaped overhanging little bump makes you traverse left. After stepping over, the route is a cruise on slabs with a mix of the Spires' usual bumpy positive features.


The face between the dihedral of Tyro's Testpiece to the left, and the giant flake of Cockabooty to the right.


Not much pro that I recall, thus the R rating in the guide books. No anchor hardware, though gear anchors are possible in a couple of spots. You can borrow Cockabooty's fixed anchor to the right to rap off.

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By Ryan Nevius
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 4, 2013

FA: David Babich, 1982.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Nov 5, 2013

Thanks Ryan, credited David on the route description.

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