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Chain Gang 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Todd Graham
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,523
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Jan 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Luke works through the crux of Chain Gang. Adam Sc...

Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>


Start off with easy moves up a pillar to a short horizontal roof. Pull over the roof and move right with some difficulty due to lack of feet. Sequential moves lead to the fourth bolt where you must traverse right. These bad holds are the crux and lead to V slot, jug and a possible knee bar. One more clip and a series of amazing jugs leads to the anchor.


This is the farthest left route on the upper left side of the Jailhouse.


5 bolts (with fixed draws) to an anchor with fixed biners.

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By Caliza
Dec 23, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Sick bouldery line. The description above says it's 60 feet, but it's 40 feet at most. Not that tall.
By Todd Graham
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Dec 31, 2015

I put up Chain Gang.
By Caliza
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun line, with the right beta this does not feel awkward, fun actually. Regarding the height, the lead wall at my gym in Berkeley is 45 feet and Chain Gang is not taller than that, great route nonetheless.
By Julian Bobilev
Mar 13, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This thing is hard for the grade! It's the first route to get into the sun, the bottom of it starts getting sunny around 11am in the dead of winter and noontime in the spring. The clipping is just as strenuous as the climbing.
By mike arechiga
Jan 16, 2017

I like Chain Gang for my warm up route better then The Warm Up Route because, their is no line to climb it, and it's one of the first climbs in the sun, and it's a bit thuggy and bouldery and with couple knee bars in the right places makes this route cup cake for me :-)Justen Sjong still owes me a happy meal with an action figure for sending this route back in the day lol :-)

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