Chadbourne Crag Rock Climbing
A. Little Buddy 10d B. Half CAb 12b C. The Clam 12...
The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon
, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate
. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.
This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate
, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.
First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:
Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.
Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.
Climbing Season For the Wasatch Range area.
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chadbourne Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chadbourne Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chadbourne Crag:
Tenacious Z 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag
Beam and Coke 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Chadbourne Crag
This climb has pretty exceptional movement on some steep terrain. The rock on this one is solid. Sinker pockets to the 3rd bolt. From 3rd to 4th bolt is the crux with some powerful moves to reach a good jug rail. From here, it joins Slice of Pie for all of the hard bits on that route....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Looking up at the Upper cave from near Piston Bull...
Great views from the crag
A. the clam 12c/d B. piston bully 12b/c c. four de...
A. Gray Boy 12d B. Tenacious Z 13a C. Interstate 1...
A. Beam and Coke 12d B. Slice of Pie 12b C. Incont...
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 28, 2011
For you all that have a GPS unit or smartphone with GPS,
The turnoff off the main trail is at:
The crag itself is at:
By Marley Nelson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 12, 2013
My favorite 5.12's are up here. I would highly recommend going if you are getting 12's in a few goes, It sucks to project up here because of long hike(if your a gym rat) but totally worth a few day trips!
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2014
I absolutely LOVE this piece of stone! Though somewhat slightly chossy, the climbing it creates is a blast. It's a beautiful hike, it's much cooler in the hot summer, and you can't help but have a great time. Get your thug on!!!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 20, 2014
The approach directions are good but I'll add my own comments to maybe help clarify. The distance from the parking to the turnoff is .7 miles by my gps. After crossing through the stream bed you should see a small rope swing. Head uphill from there east on the main trail. A trail leads down and left 1 min after the swing and should be ignored. 2 faker trails appear on the right as the trail flattens out before an excellent looking trail with a small cairn appears on the right before the short downhill section. This is the turnoff. If you continue down the short downhill section you will find a small 2'x2' boulder on the RIGHT not left and directly in the middle of the path that leads upwards and connects with the earlier trail. Either trail is fine as it's only 20 sec apart but the first trail is more traveled. If you hike for longer than 10 min past the swing you've missed both turns. The trail up is very steep but excellent in quality. If you feel like you're on a game trail you are not on the right trail. It's 2 miles one way and 1700' of gain. An hour was exactly right. Once you reach the ridge and get good views of Olympus it's 5-10 more minutes.
The crag itself has been well manicured. Many brand new fixed draws, lots of excellent flat platforms for belaying, and even a community stick clip if you're into that.
The routes are all ridiculously fun, better than af! They are also really soft ratings so you can feel extra strong and have your ego boosted after sending.