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Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 
Baja Breakdown T 
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 
Certain Death T 
Chickenhead Holiday T 
Cold Duck T 
Comfort Zone S 
Disco Captain T,S 
Disco Chicken S,TR 
Disco Duck T 
Disco Lizard T,S 
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Head On T 
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Losing My Religion  T 
Mantels to Mazatlan S 
On the Waterfront T 
Seams Like the Seashore T 
Slice of Bread T 
Thin Slab S 
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 
Unknown T 
Unknown Slab S,TR 
Waterfront Cave T 

Certain Death 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Eliason, Cado Avenali and Pete Lev - 1972
Page Views: 7,632
Submitted By: Zac Robinson on Sep 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Greg G. putting the rope up for us old guys.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This route was probably named this scary name because it was first climbed back when large protection was unavailable. With modern big gear one could sew it up if the climbing gear budget was big enough.

The large OW is visible from the schoolroom area and once at the base, you can really see how big it really is. My guess is that you will be frustratingly close to squeezing into the chimney. Close but no cigar.

Right side in, or left side in... that is always debatable. And I have had multiple climbing partners tell me that I do routes the "wrong way" 75% of the time.


On the Upper Waterfront. I usually will just scramble up the slabs just right of Disco Duck, but you can access the Upper Waterfront after some scrambling from the top of Paranoia Streak.

It starts in the big crack just behind the pillar that leans out and right.


Big cams. as in the Big Green Monster, the (new) #6 Camalot or the big green Friend. These will probably protect the crack decently well if you push it deep in there. (2 of these might be nice along with a #5 camalot)

We placed 2 #4 Big Bros. Mostly just because we had them and they needed to see some action. If you've got them, use them, if not you should still be fine.

The top section protects well with a single set and maybe some stoppers.

There is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top of the route. you could also build a belay from the slung horn at the top. You need 2 ropes to get down.

Photos of Certain Death Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Danny making off width look casual
Danny making off width look casual
Rock Climbing Photo: certain death, looking a bit moist but really only...
certain death, looking a bit moist but really only...
Rock Climbing Photo: The OW is longer than it looks from here
The OW is longer than it looks from here

Comments on Certain Death Add Comment
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By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Sep 28, 2006

tried this route but didn't get very far. Got into the crack but would have liked to have something bigger than the bd now I have a reason to get the wild country. You can down climb most of it but instead of down climbing the whole thing i went east up the ramp to the tree that now has some of my webbing and rapped off. Deffintly will come bag for another try!!
By Bill Bones
Mar 10, 2007

Great route, that troy dude looks like a pounder on it though:)
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The stem box above the OW section has some wild wild moves. From the base it looks like the cracks will take gear but they're so filled with bushes you're better off staying out of them. No matter which side you go in expect large amounts of grunting and a bunch of lost skin.
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
Sep 18, 2015

This climb kicked my ass, pushed me down, mugged me, stole my wallet, kicked me in the face as I tried to get up and then took my lady out to dinner.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
May 3, 2017

Maybe I am a wuss or a wannabe OW climber, but one could plug 3-4 #6 camalots in this if you wanted pro every 6-7 feet in the OW. I used two BD and one wild country green then ran it out in the easy stem section. VG is not a bad idea to bring if you happen to know someone that owns one, or maybe a big bro or something if you're not comfortable with a very steep OW that is really more 5.10. the actual 5.8 section above the OW is tons of fun, would see alot more traffic if it wasn't guarded by the beast. Burly climb, I found right side in worked for me, but then watched three other people climb it left side in....

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