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Cerberus 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Reed Fee
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Cerberus

Description 

Worthy route in the Land of Shadows. Like its namesake guarding the gates of Hell, this route has three heads. If you like mixed do the 5.9 trad start on the left, middle variation is 5.9 sport, the right is mixed and can take a bite out of you at 5.10a. All the routes meet about midway with bolts, not to be taken lightly all the way to the shared anchor.

Location 

currently the third bolted route to the right of where the trail meets the cliff. Look for two separate bolt lines heading up and meeting about 50' up.

Protection 

10 bolts?


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By Reed Fee
From: White Salmon WA
Oct 21, 2014

Cerberus is a mythological gaurdian of the underworld taking the form of a vicious three headed dog.
The trad start(as Dave mentioned) was the original start and inspiration for this climb, that and it's the cleanest face in the land of shadows. Rick Harrel was the one who installed the anchors two or three years before I bolted the route. He lost interest in becoming a developer of sport climbs. I wanted something in the shade for hot days.
By cconradd
From: Washougal, WA
May 31, 2015

I thought the crux through the last 2 or 3 bolts was harder than 5.9 if climbing on the face only.

Is it intended to step around the corner to the right to use some of the holds in the crack system? Looks like they were clean, but I wasn't sure if this was how the route was intended to be climbed or if I had stepped onto another route.

Great climb regardless.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Jun 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

cconradd, I've seen folk go both ways. I thought it was about the same either way.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Jun 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The bolt on the right anchor hanger is loose. We've tried to tighten it a few times and it keeps coming loose. Beware until we figure out how to fix.
By adavis
From: Vancouver, WA
May 1, 2016

The bolt on the left anchor is also loose. Hand tightened both left and right bolts on anchors, but I'm sure they will loosen up again. Be cautious.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Both bolts have been tightened with locktight. Should be good for a couple of week or so. [;}
By Benj84
May 23, 2017

Took the right hand sport start, didn't feel any harder than then finish.
By Patrick Beeson
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I had trouble finding the mixed line on this route. I thought you started with bolts, and then progressed to mixed, but that just dropped me into the 5.9 bolted line that merged at the middle. Doh.

I found the 10a line to be more fun than the 9.

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