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Centurion T 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982
Page Views: 1,841
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Feb 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Leading Centurion. Photo by Joan Bracci. MLK Mon...


When someone says "striking line" this route could be the definition. A summit block split by an ever widening crack with sky on both sides.
The business starts pretty early as the initial moves to get above the roof are the crux. Once you are established in the crack there is some nice OW to the summit, thankfully with a secure leg and knee in most of the way.


This route is the obvious crack that splits the "Centurion" block on the Diamond Clump. If you are approaching the very popular routes on Star Wars Rock, the Diamond Clump will be visible from the road about 400yds south, and Centurion is the most obvious line on the SW face. Scramble up to the base, and maybe take your belayer with you, though you can belay from the base of the slabby approach to the business section.


Under the roof will take something in the 2.5" range to protect the opening moves to get over to and under the wide section. Start by plugging a 4" cam under the roof and continue on up through the sizes as you go, all the way to #6 Wild Country cams and beyond if you need more. There are a few bolts spread around on the summit for an anchor and rappel.

He is a Quicktime Movie of the action: movie

Photos of Centurion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the roof and into the OW crack.
Past the roof and into the OW crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Anderson photo.
Jay Anderson photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Anderson photo
Jay Anderson photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Blitzo
Photo by Blitzo
Rock Climbing Photo: Triet Le sending
Triet Le sending

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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Feb 9, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Watch your rope as you do the layback moves into the offwidth, it's really easy to get your rope caught under the roof and pretty much halt any upward progress.

Sling all your pro long and set it deep. I didn't...and halfway up, all my cams (#4-#6 BD) got pulled sideways by my rope. Holy cow.

One last thing: If you climb this, please bring some anchor material. That is, bring a long piece (10') of webbing/cordalette and a couple rings to replace the rolled aluminum ones that are up there.
By Richard Shore
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Still a bit gritty, and probably doesn't get the traffic it deserves. Very, very physical. Maybe OW climbing just isn't my thing. My left knee won't forget this climb anytime soon!

Added some new tat to the rap slings on the summit 11/20/11. These bolts could really benefit from some added chain and rap rings for longevity.

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