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Centrifuge 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Ritter, Joi Matsukawa 2017
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Glenn Ritter on May 24, 2017

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Cleaning and prepping Centrifuge 12 a/b for boltin...

Description 

A centrifuge can be used for separating things. This route will surely separate the beginner from the crusher. Climb through the low bulge and past the crux at the 2nd bolt. At first, it wasn't clear we could find a solid sequence of crimps that would get us through the opening crux bulge. A "soaptone" cobble (you'll know it when you grab it), a small dimple, and a matrix mono were found to make a nice sequence. Hopefully folks won't twist their feet and destroy the crux crimp. If you are strong on small holds, you might find the grade soft. For the rest of us, its challenging. Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Location 

Located by identifying the small roof at the 2nd bolt. Lowers off at the 1/2 way height of wall.

Protection 

7 bolts, chains with steel biners.
Stick clip. If you are shorter than about 5'2", stick clip the 2nd bolt.


Photos of Centrifuge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning the crimps while establishing Centrifuge ...
Cleaning the crimps while establishing Centrifuge ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Centrifuge 12a/b right after bolting 4/30/17.  Sti...
BETA PHOTO: Centrifuge 12a/b right after bolting 4/30/17. Sti...

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