Central Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Malice Area at the Central Wall.
|Some areas require a guide.|
The large wall on the west side of North Mountain. Scope it out as you drive into the park. The central wall is the section between Split Boulder and the huge corner with the tree in it.
Park near the warm-up boulder. Walk along rd.
Weather station 8.6 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Central Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Wall:
Sea of Holes 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R Sport, 2 pitches, 350'
Window Pain 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Banana Patch 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Central Wall
Alice in Banana Land 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TX
: Hueco Tanks
: ... : Central Wall
Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out.The ...[more] Browse More Classics in TX
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2006
North Mountain is one of the greatest climbing areas in the country for the 5.9/10b climber. The 11s look great too but I can't say first hand. Leaders should be solid at trad since bolt routes are sporty not sport climbs. I have climber over 60 days on North Mountain and loved them all. There is not really a bad climb on the wall. Now that park has restrictions its a ghost town. Most climbers boulder so you can have North Mountain to yourself. Window Pain, Sea of Holes and Indescent Exposure all rate an honest Mega-classic rating.