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Sunset Dihedral T 

Central Sweden 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 8/2017
New Route: Yes
Season: When dry.
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 15, 2017

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Description 

This has relatively moderate rock with modest opportunity for protection.

I once took a trip to Sweden to meet Joseffa for some climbing, when she had taken a contract there for a few years. A combination of weather and chance diverted us from our intended destinations. June of 2012 was the rainiest June in Sweden since 1658 or something like that, and cragging was near impossible, but we pushed on to other things (kayaking in Norway), and what started as a trip to Central Sweden landed us in the heart of Norway. Regardless, a good time was had. This experience was recalled on the pitch to be described below, where unanticipated water and conditions diverted our intention to a different line than first targeted.

So, locate a huge right-facing corner system down and left from Heart of Norway, and just right of the start of Candyland. A small bush dangles down from its roots about 20' up the crack. The corner is mossy, if not seeping, at and above this point.

Climb to the bush, stem out, and then head up and right 5 meters to a set of chickenheads at a bulge. A few small Aliens/TCUs can go in here to protect the crux. If you blow the crux and the cams, you will suffer. So be sure of one or the other, and place a few pieces. The moves are not hard but are insecure.

Ride up a slight depression for a few moves and onto a slab, which is again unprotectable.

Trend right towards a corner and get a few pieces of protection, riding the right side of the rock, placing in that corner when possible. After ~ 60m, you are level with a belay tree. Step right to that, and belay.

Location 

This route starts in the massive, right-facing corner almost directly below --Candyland and makes its way past a small bush dangling down the crack from 20' up, then strikes out right to ride a rib of rock past some edges, chickenheads, and a few points of pro to the right, finally ending up at the big tree with rap slings below 'Heart Of Norway.'

Protection 

A standard light rack of cams from 0.4" to 2" and a few long slings.


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