Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Jesus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Route TR 
Frosted Flakes TR 
Jesus Wall Left TR 
Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) TR 
Left Edge TR 
Main Chimney T 
Old Aid Bolt Ladder T 
S-Crack T 

Central Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Apr 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A rather intense and sustained outing, which falls short of classic status because of less than perfect rock - face aficionados should not miss it however.

Start at the weakness left of the bolt ladder (same as variation to Jesus Wall Left). A mantle then slightly left to a vertical crack which leads to the horizontal crack (here the routes diverge). Now the fun begins; go up and slightly right to get established on the face above, thin stuff leads to a good hold for hands, then feet. Leave this hold and make a long and lonely break for holds which lead left to the Jesus Wall Left, follow this to a tenuous rest before the headwall, which proves to be the crux - steep bouldery face moves on grainy rock lead to the bottom of the finishing crack - and so to the top.

Location 

Left of the old aid bolt ladder.

Protection 

TR - Same anchor as Jesus Wall Left.


Comments on Central Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By ryan mattock
Jan 8, 2009

Mr Owen... I wonder who put up the F.A..?
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 6, 2009

I climbed this in 1986 breaking off lots of loose flakes - nevertheless I've changed it to "Unknown" 'till someone claims an FA.
By ryan mattock
Apr 4, 2010

Chris check out the Stoney Point thread on supertopo!
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....