Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Central Pinnacles

Select Area...
Bonsai Boulder 
Camp Rock 
Claim Jumper Wall 
Coyote Crag 
Doc Holliday Wall 
Gold Wall 
Gunsmoke Wall 
Incinerator Wall 
Mad Cow Wall 
Moonshine Dome 
Motherlode Rock 
Pistol Whipped Wall 
Prairie Squid Wall 
Rose Red Wall 
Skyy Slab 
Thunderbird Wall 
Tombstone Pit 
Wilbur's Tombstone 

Central Pinnacles Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 34.308, -116.8786 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 96,308
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: An overview map with some climbs to get your beari...

Description 

This area covers all of the formations from the northern parking area south to Camp Rock and includes Coyote Crag, Claim Jumper Wall, Pistol Whipped Wall, Motherlode Rock, Gunsmoke Wall, Thunderbird Wall and much more.

This area truly is the heart of the Pinnacles and offers the greatest concentration of routes with the least amount of hiking in the entire region. The abundance of well-protected, featured moderates in the area makes it especially popular during the height of the season, so be warned if seeking solitude.

Recommended routes in the area:


Getting There 

The northern parking area is located at the edge of the Central Pinnacles, making it an obvious choice to park and walk the 5-10 minutes required to reach any of the crags in the Central Pinnacles.

It's also possible to park at the southern parking area, near Parking Lot Rock, and walk north for 10 minutes to reach the southern end of the area near Coyote Crag.

Climbing Season

For the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

166 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',85],['1 Star',40],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',15],['5.8',20],['5.9',23],['5.10',62],['5.11',22],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Central Pinnacles

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Pinnacles:
Gold Standard   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Gold Wall
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Bye Crackie   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Coyote Crag
Coyotes at Sunset   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Coyote Crag
Shoot at Will   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Tombstone Pit
Black Magic Poodle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Coyote Crag
Golden Poodle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Coyote Crag
Fire in the Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Golden Nugget   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Claim Jumper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Claim Jumper Wall
Ricochet   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pistol Whipped Wall
One Armed Bandit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Claim Jumper Wall
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Pistol Pete   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Doc Holliday Wall
Tombstone Shadow   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Tombstone Pit
Doc's Holiday   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Doc Holliday Wall
Coyotes in the Henhouse   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Claim Jumper Wall
Long Arm of The Law   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - West Face
Public Hanging   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Claim Jumper Wall
The Incinerator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Incinerator Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Pinnacles

Featured Route For Central Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck on Pistol Whipped (5.11a), Holcomb Valley Pi...

Pistol Whipped 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Pistol Whipped Wall
Climb a smooth, vertical face with edges (crux) to a sloping ledge and then tackle the slightly overhung and juggy headwall above finishing on a ledge with anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Central Pinnacles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview for some of the Central Pinnacles crags, ...
BETA PHOTO: Overview for some of the Central Pinnacles crags, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Baby rattler just off the trail near the Claim Jum...
Baby rattler just off the trail near the Claim Jum...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Val...
Nearing the top of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Val...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. San Gorgonio from the Central Pinnacles, Holco...
Mt. San Gorgonio from the Central Pinnacles, Holco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Saddle Rock, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Saddle Rock, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Bye Crackie (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Bye Crackie (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Frozen water pocket, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
Frozen water pocket, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Pinnacles from the west, Holcomb Valley Pi...
BETA PHOTO: Central Pinnacles from the west, Holcomb Valley Pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Weathered snag and clouds, Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...
Weathered snag and clouds, Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. San Gorgonio from the central pinnacles.
Mt. San Gorgonio from the central pinnacles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonshine Dome
Moonshine Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the Thunderbird Wall, in the beautiful ...
Climber on the Thunderbird Wall, in the beautiful ...
Rock Climbing Photo: a beautiful day on the Lizard Head.
a beautiful day on the Lizard Head.
Rock Climbing Photo: Old marker for the nearby Mammoth Mine, Holcomb Va...
Old marker for the nearby Mammoth Mine, Holcomb Va...
Rock Climbing Photo: A portion of the road into the Central Pinnacles, ...
A portion of the road into the Central Pinnacles, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up Hidden Gold (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnac...
Midway up Hidden Gold (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Relics from the past, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Relics from the past, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: High above the trees on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holco...
High above the trees on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holco...
Rock Climbing Photo: rope bags have other uses, you know...
rope bags have other uses, you know...

Comments on Central Pinnacles Add Comment
Show which comments
By Climb To Safety
From: california
Sep 19, 2013
after much praise about the pinnacles from Chris D, i finally made it out here. Can't wait to go back, the rock is fantastic, only wish the climbs were longer.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Nov 7, 2013
Ryan,

You should climb then down-climb each route twice. Then they will seem long. Soon, an El Cap Day will be in the bag.
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Jul 5, 2016
Anyone looking for a view extending for miles in every direction nearly a hundred feet off the ground should definitely visit the top of the rock which is named Skyy Slab, Gold Wall, Coyote Crag, and Mad Cow Wall from the Northwest, Southwest, Southeast, and Northeast faces respectively. While I was there on July 4th weekend 2016, we met some high liners at the top that had lines extending from the top of here to Doc Holiday wall (Approximately 50' line) and another extending from here to Motherlode Rock on the south east corner (Approximately a 140' line). There are bolts in the rock for just such a thing. You can climb any number of routes on Coyote Crag and the longest on Gold wall to reach the top out or you can scramble as the high liners did from the far right side of Coyote Crag.