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Central Pillar of Envy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Rough on Oct 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This "adventure" route starts in the gully between Defector and Warcraft. This route is has amazing position. Unfortunately (IMO) this mixed climb will wallow in obscurity due to the need to use pro down low where the rock quality is questionable. The gear may hold but I would consider it mostly psychological.

P1-5.5: Start up the mossy and chossy 3rd class gully, then traverse left at the top to an anchor. The final moves are the 5.5 while the lower gully is mostly 4th Class Moss/Choss.

P2-5.8: Traverse right from the belay towards the obvious corner and fire up using mostly gear. Top out and traverse right and up to the base of the huge dihedral above.

P3-5.11c: Take the overhanging moss/gritty crack following bolts and possible intermediate gear placements to the top of the cliff. Use the small
scrub oak over the rim for your anchor.

Location 

Obvious gully leading to steep crack on left side of the huge pillar above the Shock Block.

Protection 

Bring gear to 3" for
P1 and P2.


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By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 28, 2013

If I remember correctly the first pitch has some 5.9ish short awkward fist crack sized crack at the end of the traverse left from the 4th class gully that leads to the ledge. The better way to go is to skip the 4th class garbage pitch (unless you like that kinda dirty but cruiser adventure climbing) and climb Defector but continue past the anchors where one more protection bolt will lead you to the big ledge atop Pitch #1.

Pitch 2 only requires a couple cams from .5" to about 1.5". Double up on the mid (off hands) size would probably be more than enough. I think the pitch is only 5.7 maybe 5.8 if you really want to push it at the top. The rock on this pitch is totally bomber for gear, some of the best at table for sure.

Pitch 3 requires no gear or climbing in the wide crack. You kinda climb the arete to the right of the crack and knee bar the offwidth when you want to rest. I meant to add another bolt to this pitch (first one) as I think the current first bolt is a little too high.

I also think the last pitch is 5.10d/.11a not .11c. If I remember correctly. It's been several years since I've been up it, but a friend of mine climbed it a year or so ago and I believe that's the grade he came up with as well.

That last pitch would be 5 stars if it weren't so mossy. Full on overhanging buckets with no hands rests the whole way. The rest of the route, though aesthetically pleasing, is kinda so so climbing and much easier than it looks from the ground.
By Rough
Feb 28, 2013

Just my opinion on this route, this is a "could've been a contender" route. I mean that with no disrespect for the climbing as I know you purposefully chose it to be an adventurous / claw your way up the wall kinda route. IMO this route was great, just the bottom section gear was unnecessarily sketchy given the rock quality and then top sections lack of cleaning really distracted from the quality of climbing and excellent position.

I bet if you spent another day on it thinking over the bottom pitches, and cleaning it, this could be an absolute classic. Regardless, I appreciate the effort you did put into it Chad. I know all too well what it takes to put up a route that long on Table Rock...umm.. rock :)
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 28, 2013

Na, I suppose you're pretty much right on. That first pitch is crap, bolts or not. The better first pitch is to avoid it and climb Defector or whatever that route is that shares it's anchor, then keep going up past one more bolt I added that leads to the 1st pitch anchor of CPOE.

The second pitch is kind lame being the only (100ft) pitch at Table that takes pro. I mean you'd have to haul gear out there just specifically for that pitch alone. I never added anything because I went ground up on those pitches and had the gear. Stopping to place a bolt instead of a bomber cam while leading would be dumb but I can certainly see why people would rather it just be bolted.

The last pitch I only cleaned a little bit because when I dropped in to replace the old aid bolts it had been raining the day before and everything was moist and seeping. I gave it a quick scrub but that's about it. I lead the whole thing the next day and have never been back on it.

I agree though, it needs some work to increase it's potential qualities for sure.

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