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> 3 - Iron Curtain
Central Pillar of Envy
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Chad Suchoski |
Page Views: | 1,061 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Rough on Oct 6, 2012 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This "adventure" route starts in the gully between Defector and Warcraft. This route is has amazing position. Unfortunately (IMO) this mixed climb will wallow in obscurity due to the need to use pro down low where the rock quality is questionable. The gear may hold but I would consider it mostly psychological.
P1-5.5: Start up the mossy and chossy 3rd class gully, then traverse left at the top to an anchor. The final moves are the 5.5 while the lower gully is mostly 4th Class Moss/Choss.
P2-5.7: Traverse right from the belay towards the obvious corner and fire up using mostly gear. Top out and traverse right and up to the base of the huge dihedral above.
P3-5.11a: Take the overhanging moss/gritty crack following bolts and possible intermediate gear placements to the top of the cliff. Use the small
scrub oak over the rim for your anchor.
P1-5.5: Start up the mossy and chossy 3rd class gully, then traverse left at the top to an anchor. The final moves are the 5.5 while the lower gully is mostly 4th Class Moss/Choss.
P2-5.7: Traverse right from the belay towards the obvious corner and fire up using mostly gear. Top out and traverse right and up to the base of the huge dihedral above.
P3-5.11a: Take the overhanging moss/gritty crack following bolts and possible intermediate gear placements to the top of the cliff. Use the small
scrub oak over the rim for your anchor.
Photos
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