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Central Gully

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Crystal S 
Dragon Slayer S 
Dragon's Lair S 
Dragon's Lair Var. S 
Dragon's Tail S 
Holy Flail, The S 
Pendulum S 

Central Gully Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,904'
Location: 38.98955, -119.90811 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 887
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016
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Description 

The routes here were set in the early 90's and are sportier than the moderate stuff at the base of Castle. Approaching from above you will soon find Upper Chambers on your Right. This wall has two 5.10's and an 11d between them, all sharing a pair of open cold shuts.

Hike further near the bottom of the gully and you will come upon The Holy Flail 11b/c on the Right side, starting high, followed by the Lower Chambers wall with a 10d and 11b (L to R) sharing open cold shuts.

Getting There 

From the Castle Gates boulders, continue straight ahead toward Castle Rock's peak which is visible between trees. The Central Gully can be found by heading downhill on the first apparent trail after the Castle Gates where you'll see a gray weathered stump.

Approaching from above, Upper Chambers is soon found to your Right and The Holy Flail 11b/c and Lower Chambers are found near the base on the Right side.

If you hike below this you will meet the main climbing area trail just West of The Prize Cliff and Playground Rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Central Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Gully:
Pendulum   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Gully

Featured Route For Central Gully

Dragon's Lair 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Nevada : Lake Tahoe : ... : Central Gully
Far Right route at the Upper Chambers. Starts behind a tree from the dirt and leads up to a terrace, then continues up the face veering Left to open cold shuts at the anchor. For an 11a variation, go Left and finish the Dragon Slayer bolt line (see route beta) after clipping the third bolt (technically you earn some dragon slayer status by doing this, but only for a little dragon). Lower off....[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

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