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Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Gully 
Damnation Buttress T 
Damnation Gully 
Diagonal Gully 
Escape Hatch T 
North Gully 
Odell's Gully 
Pinnacle Gully 
South gully 
Yale Gully 

Central Gully 


Type:  Ice, Alpine, Grade II
Original: WI1 [details]
FA: A.J. Holden & N.L. Goodrich 2/23/1927
Page Views: 8,770
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Central Gully RT and the start of Pinnacle Gully b...


First ascent in Huntington Ravine - also one of the longest routes in the ravine. Watch for avalanches.

Editor's Note: The ice grade varies greatly depending on the amount of snow, from the NE Ice "1" (I'm not really sure what that is, since I thought "Ice "1" was used for very moderate glacial travel.) to about "2 / 2+" when there's little snow and lots of water & cold. This is a long climb, second only to Damnation in length, although most of it is higher-angle snow. (R. Hall)


Once you hit the Alpine Garden from the top of the climb, you can either descend down the climb (if you're comfortable on this "steep" terrain) or walk left to the Escape Hatch or take Lion Head Trail (recommended - provides an amazing walk along the Alpine Garden). Or follow the cairns to the summit - can follow several trails or the auto road off the mountain. The auto road will not drop you off at Pinkham Notch, so only use in emergency situations.


Snow stakes & ice screws

Photos of Central Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dawn on Huntington's Ravine - Central Gully in the...
Dawn on Huntington's Ravine - Central Gully in the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Gully
BETA PHOTO: Central Gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Central gully
Looking down Central gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Central Gully
Looking up Central Gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Great long ski line
Great long ski line
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out.
Topping out.

Comments on Central Gully Add Comment
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By Rutherc
From: Draper, UT
Feb 21, 2017

There's one step of ice at a constriction half way up the route. In high snow years, this ice can be completely covered in snow at which point the route becomes a snow climb and an excellent option for descent.

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