REI Community
Central Gorge

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Alien Wall 
Attila the Hun Wall 
Banana Belt 
Emergency Room 
Faulty Tower 
Great Wall of China 
Health Club 
High Tension Towers 
Mystical Tricks Cliff 
Negress Wall 
Pop Tart Towers 
Pub Wall 
Riverside Island 
Roadside Boulders 
Shaded Wall 
Social Platform 
Solarium 
Warm Up Wall 

Central Gorge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.51237, -118.57093 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 130,988
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

38°
Saturday

61° | 39°
Sunday

66° | 41°
Monday

69° | 41°
Tuesday

73° | 45°
Wednesday

82° | 47°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Heading down the Central Gorge approach gully, Owe...

Description 

Definitely the most popular area of the gorge. The Warm Up wall, the Pub, the Social Platform and the Great Wall of China are all here and almost always crowded. These areas feature tons of well traveled 5.8 - 5.11 sport climbs. The climbs highly concentrated so its possible to knock out tons of pitches in a day. There is a toilet located at the base of the approach trail. Please use it.

Getting There 

Park at the Central area and hike down the steep 2nd and 3rd class gully to the dirt road. Be careful not to knock rocks off since the Pub wall is directly below the upper part of the trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.1 miles from here

194 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',108],['2 Stars',59],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',6],['5.8',10],['5.9',26],['5.10',67],['5.11',56],['5.12',20],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Central Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Gorge:
Babushka   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Warm Up Wall
Heart of the Sun   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Abitafun   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Pub Wall
Paradise   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Banana Belt
Child of Light   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Show Us Your Tits   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Emergency Room
Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Warm Up Wall
Sendero Luminoso   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Solarium
Light Within   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Pub Wall
Yellow Peril   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Great Wall of China
Hardly Wallbanger   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Pub Wall
Perched   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Faulty Tower
Peking Duck   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Great Wall of China
Love Stinks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Banana Belt
Hungover   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Pub Wall
Mandarin Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Expressway   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Social Platform
Lalaland   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Faulty Tower
From Chocolate to Morphine   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Faulty Tower
Darshan (aka Ripoff)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Social Platform
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Gorge

Featured Route For Central Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumpkin

Pumpkin 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Attila the Hun Wall
Starts off of the ledge on a vertical face. Big holds lead up to a crux crimpy reach right at the third bolt. Gain the arete and after a few moves, a good rest at a "hueco" like hold. A technical traverse left, leads to more good holds up to the base of the curving arete. Continuously tricky climbing follows the arete as it curves left to the final mantle to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Central Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Does this qualify as posing? This flagrant biologi...
Does this qualify as posing? This flagrant biologi...
Rock Climbing Photo: North end of the Central Gorge, Solarium on the ri...
North end of the Central Gorge, Solarium on the ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: A perfect end to the day in December.  [Thank you ...
A perfect end to the day in December. [Thank you ...
Rock Climbing Photo: owens
owens
Rock Climbing Photo: Warm Up Wall
Warm Up Wall

Comments on Central Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Sep 9, 2010
Descent has been upgraded with incredible stone stairways thanks to some hard working individuals. This speeds the hike up and is much safer. (11.1.12) Some amazing classics lie down in the central. Enterprise, choclate to morphine and expressway just to name a few.
By Joe Freeman
Apr 10, 2015
We were there about the 25th of march 2015. Passing through on spring break. Carried out a bag garbage from the toilet. Mostly used tampons, pads and beer cans. also a bunch of TP and even some other items used as tp. People were throwing it in the bucket. The bucket has a huge crack in the bottom. Per the sign the bucket is for getting water to clean the toilet. Since it is broken it serves no purpose other than to make folks think it is a trash bin. I left the bucket there so people wont put garbage down the toilet but if someone who is in that area could replace it with a functional bucket, with"no garbage in here or in toilet" written on it folks might not leave all that trash in the toilet.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 6, 2017
The GPS coordinates for the Upper Gorge parking turn-off are: 37 30.545 N, 118 34.515 W

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