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From MP's sister site:

Central Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.6176, -72.8237 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 144,581
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

53°
Thursday

58° | 53°
Friday

66° | 52°
Saturday

72° | 56°
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71° | 56°
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71° | 57°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades albeit, with many access issues along the way. The majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and is technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area, keep a low profile and be smart about your impact and presence. One of the main concerns with climbers is parking along the roads, so be smart.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Firewall
Pinnacle Rock
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug Park
East Peak
Cathole Mountain
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
The Chin
West Rock State Park
The Garden

Getting There 

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

370 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',106],['2 Stars',157],['1 Star',85],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',93],['5.7',48],['5.8',54],['5.9',57],['5.10',46],['5.11',47],['5.12',20],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Central Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Valley:
Wiessner Slab   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
First Crack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall
Knight's Move   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Ancient Way   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Golden Book   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 70'   Cathole Mountain : Main Walls
Wet Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Second Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall
Broadway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Carey Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Wiessner Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Zambezi Hatchet Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall
Pegasus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 70'   Cathole Mountain : Main Walls
Emerald City   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Pinnacle Rock : Emerald City Slab
Vector   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
YMC Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Thor's Hammer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Merimere Face
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Mind Bender Direct   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Cathole Mountain : Main Walls
Cat Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Peak : Amphitheater
Subline   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Valley

Featured Route For Central Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Dol Guldor is the chalked up crack on the left.

Dol Guldur 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13  Connecticut : Central Valley : ... : Amphitheater
Climb the crack with a variety of thin fingers and face holds to the top of the crack, traverse left, go up and back right. Tricky and sequential, and tough to protect on the lead. You'll need every trick in the thin crack book. I am a bit embarrased to be posting this since after many tries I only managed to do this once during the mid 90's shortly after Ken Nichols had made his 1000th ascent of the line! I gave it the traditional 5.11 grade, but let me say this is a SOLID 5.11. One migh...[more]   Browse More Classics in Connecticut

Photos of Central Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic Traprock ascent
Classic Traprock ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack
Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Ragged Mountain
Ragged Mountain

Comments on Central Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2006
John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e).
By John Peterson
Feb 27, 2006
After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed.
By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Mar 19, 2006
Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 9, 2006
heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Aug 3, 2012
And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too...
By Dmadison
From: Logan, UT
May 5, 2013
This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet).
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
May 7, 2013
HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead.
By J.R. Berry
From: SCL utahl
Oct 15, 2015
Hey Ya'll visiting this area for a very Spooky Halloween weekend climbing trip, is there any camping near by someone would recommend ?!

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