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Big Worm T 
Central Corner T 
Full Effect, The S 
Full Throttle S,TR 
Jammit Damnit T,S 
Lichen Flakes T 
Logjam T 
Lower Buttress Direct S 
Reasons to be Cheerful T 
Reasons to be Fearful TR 
Sergeant Schultz S 
Skunks in the Gym S 
Stress Management T 
Trundle Love S 
Twit T 
Wild Blue Yonder S 

Central Corner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 17, 2011

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Great climbing! In Conway it would get lots of love. Understandably it sees little action at Rumney since it isn't very sporty. It wasn't too dirty when I was on it but there was a little loose rock and dirt up top that my rope was threatening to knock down. I moved my anchor and crisis was averted.

Climb the wide crack right off the ledge manteling to the right and up to a nice stance. Find your way in to the corner awkwardly in a wide hand jam mixed with some perfect hands. It's a bit of a grovel but in a nice Yosemite way not a bad way. It eases up on the second half but you are still climbing 5.8 all the way to the top.


As the name implies this is the middle corner of the "triple corners". Look for the wide crack start and a nice tight corner above with a hand crack.


Regular rack, the guide book says to bring a wide cam but if you look close you can find other options.
Build an anchor or head up to a tree anchor a ways back (bring a sling to add, the anchor is looking a little ratty)

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By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Today an accident was narrowly avoided on the ledge below the three corners.
My partner climbed Logjam. He went to a tree on the right to set an anchor and I lowered him in the Central Corner groove because it's more in line with the descent. As soon as he got to the ledge, big blocks started coming down (0.5 - 1 cubic foot blocks). When the rocks stopped coming down, my partner put me on belay on the side of the rope that came down the Central Corner. I when up with my grigri on the other end of the rope and climbed Logjam cleaning the gear. Once at the top, I rappelled to the Reasons to be Cheerful anchor and rapped to the ledge.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed this yesterday and cleaned most of the loose rocks that were threatening to fall at the end of the route. There is still some leafs, debris and small pieces of rock but everything is safe enough to be climbed. There is still a large rock that is jammed in the corner that you want to be careful with. Make sure your rope doesn't get caught and dislodge that chunk of rock that holds more loose stuff. I really enjoyed it!!!

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