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Haystack Mountain
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Central Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 3,257
Submitted By: John Bradford on Aug 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Pitch 4, an arching right-facing corner...

Description 

5 pitches of good climbing on clean rock, with the 2nd pitch being the crux. Scramble up the slabs to the obvious corner. Last ptich is mostly easy scrambling If you are camping on the slabs across from Haystack; there are great views of this climb. Descend via the goat track.

Location 

Pretty much in the center of the wall, right of the railroad tracks and left of the great chimney.

Protection 

standard mountain rack


Photos of Central Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There are a couple of ways to access the corner. O...
BETA PHOTO: There are a couple of ways to access the corner. O...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of the awesome corner. There was a par...
BETA PHOTO: At the base of the awesome corner. There was a par...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more fun ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more fun ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay Central Corner
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay Central Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: There are a couple of ways to access the corner. O...
BETA PHOTO: There are a couple of ways to access the corner. O...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route annotated on how we climbing it.
The route annotated on how we climbing it.
Rock Climbing Photo: joe mucci on belay, with the awesome north face of...
joe mucci on belay, with the awesome north face of...
Rock Climbing Photo: After finishing this section you end up on a huge ...
BETA PHOTO: After finishing this section you end up on a huge ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A 1983 ascent of Central Corner
A 1983 ascent of Central Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the belay after finishing the ro...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the belay after finishing the ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Building a belay below the roof in the dihedral of...
BETA PHOTO: Building a belay below the roof in the dihedral of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the harder climbing - superb rock!
Start of the harder climbing - superb rock!
Rock Climbing Photo: The entrance to the chimney system on the final pi...
BETA PHOTO: The entrance to the chimney system on the final pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: going down the Grassy Goat Trail
going down the Grassy Goat Trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the chimney on Pitch 5. Pretty easy cli...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the chimney on Pitch 5. Pretty easy cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: dave nelson on pitch 3
dave nelson on pitch 3

Comments on Central Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We simul-climbed the first long pitch to the big ledge at the base of the steeper climbing. Three high quality pitches leads to another big ledge and then one more pitch to the top. Might want a couple of extra thin hand size pieces.
By Alison Conrad
Sep 9, 2011

If you go by the Steve Bechtel guide, we found he was a off on pitches and length. It is about 450 feet to the the corner. The way we went did not seem like 5.2, but had a few 5.8 moves. All pitches are rope stretchers. The corner pitch seemed about 10a. A standard rack to #3 is fine. We had doubles, but it would be nice to have a few more hand pieces and a few smaller pieces. Awesome route!