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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 3,173
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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BETA PHOTO: Centerfold Topo (Pitch 1)


Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.

P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.

P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.

P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst


This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.


Cams to 3" and a set of nuts

Photos of Centerfold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica on her redpoint 2 pitch as one mega pitch.
Jessica on her redpoint 2 pitch as one mega pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: What climb would be complete without some slab cli...
What climb would be complete without some slab cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Collin getting into the business on pitch 1
Collin getting into the business on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: View down from the second belay. The bottom half o...
BETA PHOTO: View down from the second belay. The bottom half o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. ...
Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. ...

Comments on Centerfold Add Comment
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By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
May 25, 2009

Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous.
Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 24, 2010

Being more crack climbers than slab climbers we opted to try the Pinup variation for the third pitch, which takes you to into a dirty corner that feels harder than the 5.9 given by the guidebook(likely due to the moss and pine needles on the face holds and filling the crack). We were able to rappel the route(from the top of Pinup) in 3 raps with a 60m. I wouldn't repeat this variation.
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What an awesome climb! P2 & P3 are great. P1 & P2 can be linked.

We rapped the route in 2 raps with 2x 60m twins.
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Beautiful climb. While there is definitely some run-outs, they are on easier terrain and didn't give me much concern (and I'm a bad slab climber...). The pitch 2 hand traverse is not very positive. I didn't place gear for 7 or 8 feet before hitting it and expected it to be good, but it's not great. I ended up taking a pretty good whip from there. When I pulled back up I put in higher gear and found a foot I'd missed. Bottom line - don't run it out for the horizontal break, it's not as good as you'd think.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 9, 2013

A 70m just makes the first rap, but tie knots. Then you can rap straight down to the anchors above the 11c. And then a final rap down.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 12, 2013

I thought the run-outs were fairly inconsistent, and the route seemed oddly bolted. Also there are still some old bolts on this route.

Hard for me to think this is top 100. I wouldn't recommend it to friends.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Great climbing. Stout for the grade. I have never been so runout, not a fan of that. Big fall potential. I think that having double ropes helped extremely with rope management. If you are pushing your grade, you may want to think a bit before attempting this runout climb!

By Adrian Lazar
Aug 27, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux on p2 can be protected with a blue or orange Metollius TCU.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

FA: John Howe, Mike Down, Blake Robinson, 1981
I have to agree with Luke, but the first 2 pitches are great.
By Ryan Lynne
Apr 15, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first pitch is pretty easy except for a short 5.10b section that is protected by a bolt. Its a bit awkward but you are right at the bolt.

The second pitch is definitely the crux of the route. The main difficulty is getting up the small roof with the twin cracks. At the top of the twin cracks there is one more short crux at the horizontal where you go left. This last crux is tricky but it is short and it is easier above, look for the foot. Place good gear before and through the the twin cracks.

The third pitch has two runouts, one at the start and one at the very end of the pitch. The first runout can be optionally protected with a small nut and an ok cam placement but it is easy climbing and not really needed. The last run out has no possible protection. At the last bolt traverse out left and then trend back right. As you trend back right the climbing gets easier as the rock is less glacier polished and has more features.

Gear anchor is required for pitch 1, pitches 2 & 3 have bolted anchors at the top. First pitch is short and doesn't require much gear. Second pitch requires small finger to hand sizes to protect the cruxes. Third pitch can be done with only draws, you may however want a small cam or small nut to protect the first runout.

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