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YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,420
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


More popular and more fun as an ice climb, i recommend waiting till it freezes to climb it. The climbing is actually pretty cool but there are a few BIG down sides. It is quite vegetated, wet, muddy, and on top of all this its pretty poorly protected oh and a few loose rocks. If you mess up on this climb chances are you will hurt your self and a few people below since this is a crowded cliff most days. If you do choose to climb it make sure there is no one below you and you are up for a poorly protected adventure.

Start under Egg McMeadows and follow easy holds up and right in to the vegetated grove to the right of that climb. Climb poorly protected but moderate rock till you get a stance and place some gear under a steeper wall. Move left on dirty slab and up to a dirt/mud gully. I remember when i did this route years ago this finish gully was all mud and i took my shoes off and "climbed" (laughing my ass off) in ankle deep mud to the trees at the top.


The vegetated grove right of Egg McMeadows.


Normal rack but you wont use much. i remember using a nut tool to dig mud out of a crack.

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By Ladd
Nov 29, 2007

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 29, 2007

By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Climbed this today, and it really should just be left for the winter. The protection is terrible, and the top of the climb is loose dirt and rock. Like Lee mentions do not do this while people are below because you will knock a ton of stuff down because the top is all dirt and grape sized rock.

The opening section can be fun but the top destroys and chance for this to be a quality route.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 28, 2012

Somebody left an old piton in the gully as you go up towards the exit.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
May 10, 2012

Would this climb have potential if it were cleaned up and bolted? I know a lot of people are against bolting trad routes, but seeing as this one has poor protection and isn't exactly as popular as the 5.8 crack, maybe it could offer another good first lead since Week with Pete is often crowded?
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 10, 2012

It is primarily an ice climb. If it gets all cleaned up, it probably wouldn't form ice as easily. Also, since it is a gully, it will constantly get dirty. I wouldn't try to make it into a sport route.

There can't be enough routes put in at Rumney to alleviate crowding. It only draws more people. The solution is for people to spread out to some other cliffs more (and be willing to hike or bike more than 5 minutes). Efforts should be put in to replace old crappy gear and re-clean some of the good routes that are laying fallow and find new lines at old crags like around Sundown and Woodchuck and other nearby crags. Spread the love.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2012

i agree mark... very well reasoned...

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