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Center Stage 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]
FA: 1988: Patrick Purcell and Don Mellor
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jul 22, 2015

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In the middle of the runout on Center Stage.

Description 

One of the better 5.12 trad routes in the park. It hasn't seen much attention over the years, but has recently been thoroughly scrubbed. The first ascent avoided the initial overhanging wall by climbing a cedar tree, which is now gone. The direct start goes at V4.

In addition to the hard start, the route has several additional cruxes: the endurance face climbing (which is also runout), and the slab at the top.

Boulder up the overhanging wall (~V4) to a ledge. (You may want to stick clip a high piece here to avoid groundfall.) From the ledge, continue up a fingercrack to its top, then traverse left 5' to another short crack. Protect here (bomber #0.4), then punch it up and right to a bolt, then up to a ledge. Negotiate a few puzzling, heartbreaker slab moves, then up horizontals and a right-leaning crack to the top. There's a nice spacious ledge at the top with a large tree for an anchor.

Location 

Left side of the 5.10 Wall. Scramble up a left-rising, vegetated ledge to a good belay stance at a cedar tree. Just above is a sloped ledge below an overhanging wall with a crack; shoe up here.

Protection 

2 bolts, many small to medium nuts, plus these cams:
2 #.75 Camalots
2 #0.5 Camalots
1 Green Alien
1 #2 Camalot
1 #0.3 Camalot
1 #0.4 Camalot


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