|Original:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke|
|Submitted By:||adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010|
|Comments on Center Squeeze||Add Comment|
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By Topher Dabrowski
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The start of this route sucks. The climbing is about 5.5 until you reach the large ledge midway up on the route, there is little to no gear getting there and plenty of sketchy rock.
A better option would be to climb Thin Line, clip it's three bolts with longer slings and then trend left to the midway ledge on Center Squeeze and take it from there.
The large cam in the big pocket isn't as secure as using a 0.5BD cam in the slot at the bottom of the same pocket IMO.