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(5) Fir Tree Ledge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Squeeze T 
Darkhorse, The T 
Squeeze Play TR 
Thin Line , The T 
Tunnel Vision T 

Center Squeeze 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Center Squeeze to Naughty & Nice

Description 

A nice boulder start leads to a stem past the outside of the obvious 40' squeeze chimney which takes small cams/lowe balls inside of it while you basically face climb to avoid using the squeeze chimney, then up easy climbing to a couple of small staggered ledges mid-pitch. Catch your breath, then stretch and clip the first of 2 bolts, then, while trying not to pull what looks like a detached pillar onto you, pull the pillar, stuff the big cam into your right handhold and then head up the easier 20' finish to a rap anchor on top.

Protection 

Mixed gear and 2 bolts - Pro, small nuts and cams, Lowe balls, especially helpful is the Medium Supercam size for the piece above the 2nd bolt.


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By Topher Dabrowski
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The start of this route sucks. The climbing is about 5.5 until you reach the large ledge midway up on the route, there is little to no gear getting there and plenty of sketchy rock.

A better option would be to climb Thin Line, clip it's three bolts with longer slings and then trend left to the midway ledge on Center Squeeze and take it from there.

The large cam in the big pocket isn't as secure as using a 0.5BD cam in the slot at the bottom of the same pocket IMO.