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Center Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Locals
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 570
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 27, 2008

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Description 

P1. Wander up low 5th class rock, passing possible great placements. At the base of the main slab, angle slightly up and left to belay at the base of an obvious crack at the right end of the large overlap (#2 Camalot, yellow Alien and middle stopper for belay).

P2. Climb up the obvious crack with decent but not excellent pro aiming for the small tree above the overhang (bring a 2nd #2 Camalot and possibly some larger cams). Place gear just before the roof (stoppers, tiny Aliens) and move up and left through the roof on big holds. Ramble to the top. Mostly lower 5th class, a bit of 5.5 on pitch 2.

Location 

Start about 10 feet up and left from the low point of the slab, just behind a tree.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, with perhaps more emphasis on larger sizes for the upper crack of the 2nd pitch. There are a few sections of the second pitch that are mildly run-out or difficult to protect, making this a poor choice for the beginning trad leader compared to other pitches on the wall.


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