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Goat Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route TR 
Corner Route T 
Goat Rock Traverse 
Great Roof, The TR 
Swiss Cheese T,TR 
Triple Overhang TR 

Center Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,782
Submitted By: Melissa Moore on Oct 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Paul approaching a fun bulge to head up and over.

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


The Center Route starts just to the right of the tree under the roof, where the pitch of the slab becomes a bit steeper. There are tons of good pockets on this climb, making it pretty uncomplicated. Be smooth and careful when lowering your partner down, as the rock isn't completely vertical in all spots - there are some protrusions that hurt a LOT to smack into if your belayer abruptly stops (unfortunately known from personal experience). This is a fun climb for a warm up or new climbers.


To set up the toprope for this route some very long webbing (~30') is in order. I put some webbing around the base of the tree at the top of the rock, and used quickdraws to hang it over the top of the climb to minimize drag. There is one bolt at the top of the climb, but it's about 6' back so you'll probably want a sling so you can equalize with the webbing.

Photos of Center Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul leading the bottom part of Center Route.
Paul leading the bottom part of Center Route.

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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Center Route is a fun route although nothing very difficult. This can be fairly safely led using many slings as tie-offs. Once over the upper small ceiling, I hiked left to the 3 bolts/rappel rings over the large overhang. A fun rap down from there!
By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, but if Triple Overhang is 5.9, this seems more like 5.8 than 5.9.
By Joel Frederico
Jun 9, 2013

Bay Area Rock book shows anchors - these have been chopped. I rather wonder if they've been there anytime in the last few years...

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