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Center Route P3 Variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Roger Briggs,1975
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Ralph Swansen on Aug 9, 2015

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This pitch is a fine option for those that want to summit but are not feeling the. 11b (Class Act).

Chimney up the start of the third pitch. When the hand crack appears on the left, follow it up (crux) and out left around the arête. This leads to a leftward traverse which dumps you above the difficult moves of the third pitch of Wunsch's. Continue up Wunsch's to the base of the bolt ladder.

I was surprised to find no bolted anchor at the base of the bolt ladder as there is no place for a trad anchor unless you have a #4 (combined with the first bolt of the ladder) or build an uncomfortable belay where Wunsch's dumps you out onto the platform. I girth hitched the rope to the first two bolts and setup a belay off that.

Before belaying my partner, I had to descend to the last piece I placed and remove it so that I could get the rope out of the crack as it was just fully stuck. The crack just doesn't let the rope run up it. I was able to sit back off the anchor and pull the rope up over the edge of the rock without it falling back into the crack.


Rappel as for Wunsch's.


Doubles from 0.75 to 3, one set for before the traverse (lower section) and one set for the upper and maybe three ones and twos if you want to sew it up.

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By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 10, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

An extremely varied pitch to break up the monotony of the perfect hands of down below. Awkward as hell leaving the belay, but a huge rest pod before the wide fingers crux offers aid. An easy, fun, exposed traverse leading to a strenuous 5.8 wide section with lots of face holds to help. Finishes with an exciting flaring finger section for 5 feet before returning back to bomber hands again. Better than any pitch on the center route I think. Used a 0.75, a 1, and a 2 for the first section, a 2 and a 3 to cover the traverse, a 0.5 and a bumping 3 (some like a 4 here but not at all mandatory) to cover the wide, and some 0.5 to 1 for the last section, big nuts are good here. Get on it!

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