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Center Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Eric Beck, Jerry and John Hooper, Steve Mckinney, and Milo Pradonovitch
Page Views: 1,970
Submitted By: bspiewak on Nov 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Center Direct Start

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


A steep, imposing, and intimidating line that breeches the tallest part of the wall.
"This was the first route on the rock and originally involved some aid. The second ascent freed it at 5.7 or so. It follows a generally direct line to the apex of the triangle." - Crags and Boulders of San Diego County '78.
An absolutely proud line for ~1965 for sure. I'm not as sure about the 5.7 or so free grade.
The bottom center of The Wedge is dominated by a large black roof and a prominent right facing corner system. The Headwall is marked by a right trending crack system that exits the upper right side of the headwall. Together they allow the easiest means of climbing through the center of The Wedge.
The central base of the wall is guarded by a 100' high, broken, blocky junk pile. On the right side of this, directly below the big black roof 125' above, a right facing corner system begins.

Pitch 1. Follow the right facing corner/crack system until it becomes the roof that forces you to traverse out right and down at times. When the crack ends two bolts above protects 5.11 moves, or, continue further right and up through blocky 5.6 terrain. Belay off a pair of bolts out right. to 3". 5.9 60'

Pitch 2. Climb back left into the orange stained corner where a bolt protects the moves out left. Skip the 90' rap anchor above the orange corner and continue up and right on to the 4 bolt slab under the roof. The pitch ends at the bolted belay on Being and Nothingness. bolted. 5.10 70'

Pitch 3. Climb past the first three bolts then step left into the steep thin corner. At about 90' a bolted rap anchor appears on the left, skip this anchor and continue on up the large, highly fractured corner above. Belay off bolts on the killer ledge atop the Center Block. thin to 3". 5.10 125'

Pitch 4. Off the Center Block climb out to the left and up over the break in the roof above. Ignore the two bolt anchor above the roof (Black Castle belay) and continue up the ramp to the right 25' to the bolted belay on a sloping ledge. to 2". 5.9 75'

Pitch 5. A bolt off the belay protects the powerful moves guarding the entrance into the easier headwall exit crack above. Steep, chunky face climbing with crack pro climbs past an old relic of a piton. At the shallow ledge you encounter traverse right 10' to the base of a dihedral. Climb the corner above (5.9+) or step out right on the bolted arete of Edge of Reason (5.10). The bolted anchor above marks the end of the difficulties. Easy climbing above takes you to the top of The Wedge, with 1/2"-4" belay options. to 3". 5.10 125'

Descent: Several options exist.

A.) From the bolts atop pitch 5, rap back down the bolted arete, continuing down the Edge of Reason/Being and Nothingness rappels, ending back near the start.

B.) Walk off to the West Ledges Descent.

C.) Rap the Commanders anchors.


Tiny to 3". Doubles to 2". Long runners.

Photos of Center Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Natalie Brechtel on P3 of the Center Direct, El Ca...
Natalie Brechtel on P3 of the Center Direct, El Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: CD Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Center Direct
BETA PHOTO: Center Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch of Center Direct. One of the best 5.10s...
Last pitch of Center Direct. One of the best 5.10s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last moves of last pitch. Amazing climb!
Last moves of last pitch. Amazing climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of P3.
Top of P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 Center Block Splitter!
Pitch 3 Center Block Splitter!
Rock Climbing Photo: Center Direct   Pitch 1
Center Direct Pitch 1

Comments on Center Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Nov 18, 2014

Any extra info on this for someone pushing their grade? Does the PG13 come at cruxes, gear, or runout bolts? I know it takes the fun out of it, but...
By dgill
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Overall heads-up route linking discontinuous cracks with bolted face climbing. Pro is singles of cams from small to 4", with small nuts for the seam on pitch 2, and 8 quick draws. Bring a lot of runners. All anchors were bolted.

Pitch 1 (5.9) Did the 5.9 variation up the dihedral, continuing up the easy (5.6), bolted face to a bolted traverse. Some of the features on the traverse sounded pretty hollow, but solid holds could be found. Extend pieces lower down on the pitch or deal with rope drag on the traverse/having to pitch out the traverse. Bolted anchor. This ends at the top of Pitch 2 in the hand drawn topo in the photo section.

Pitch 2 (5.10 PG13) Begin with 5.10 sport climbing past three bolts using slanting ledges and mantles, ending at a sloping ledge. From here continue up a seam to a small stance. Above the seam is a nice looking layback crack; however, it's actually part of a large tabular block (8' h x 6' w x 6" thick). It's not a feature you'd want to spend a lot of time on (5.9 PG13). Continue up fractured terrain to the good belay ledge on top of the center block. Bolted anchor. This pitch had an overall dirty feel to it and some loose rock. Tread carefully.

Pitch 3 (5.9) Start off slightly left of the belay up a bolted face, passing a small overlap, then trending right to a bolted belay on a sloping ledge. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10) Best pitch. Off the belay and protected by a bolt, thug through a funky boulder problem involving an overhanging horn. Continue up and then right with face climbing past discontinuous cracks for pro, passing a piton. Continue to the base of a dihedral. We did the Edge of Reason variation on the bolted arete, and it was stellar. Fantastic rock, good moves, and some exposure to boot. Bolted Anchor.

We rapped the Edge of Reason/ Being and Nothingness anchors on a single 70m.
By Earl
From: Korea, Osan AB
Jul 2, 2015

Last pitch was awesome. Glad I brought my micro cams. Didn't use my #4.
By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Jul 20, 2015

Hey, thanks for Beta. I started standard hot, so slick, and some pretty suspect rock in dihedral..blew a perfect micro cam on body weight. Ended up on 5.9 crack to left year. thanks again!

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