|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 450'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Eric Beck, Jerry and John Hooper, Steve Mckinney, and Milo Pradonovitch|
|Submitted By:||bspiewak on Nov 29, 2012|
|Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Center Direct||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: San Diego
Nov 18, 2014
|Any extra info on this for someone pushing their grade? Does the PG13 come at cruxes, gear, or runout bolts? I know it takes the fun out of it, but...|
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Overall heads-up route linking discontinuous cracks with bolted face climbing. Pro is singles of cams from small to 4", with small nuts for the seam on pitch 2, and 8 quick draws. Bring a lot of runners. All anchors were bolted.
Pitch 1 (5.9) Did the 5.9 variation up the dihedral, continuing up the easy (5.6), bolted face to a bolted traverse. Some of the features on the traverse sounded pretty hollow, but solid holds could be found. Extend pieces lower down on the pitch or deal with rope drag on the traverse/having to pitch out the traverse. Bolted anchor. This ends at the top of Pitch 2 in the hand drawn topo in the photo section.
Pitch 2 (5.10 PG13) Begin with 5.10 sport climbing past three bolts using slanting ledges and mantles, ending at a sloping ledge. From here continue up a seam to a small stance. Above the seam is a nice looking layback crack; however, it's actually part of a large tabular block (8' h x 6' w x 6" thick). It's not a feature you'd want to spend a lot of time on (5.9 PG13). Continue up fractured terrain to the good belay ledge on top of the center block. Bolted anchor. This pitch had an overall dirty feel to it and some loose rock. Tread carefully.
Pitch 3 (5.9) Start off slightly left of the belay up a bolted face, passing a small overlap, then trending right to a bolted belay on a sloping ledge. Bolted anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10) Best pitch. Off the belay and protected by a bolt, thug through a funky boulder problem involving an overhanging horn. Continue up and then right with face climbing past discontinuous cracks for pro, passing a piton. Continue to the base of a dihedral. We did the Edge of Reason variation on the bolted arete, and it was stellar. Fantastic rock, good moves, and some exposure to boot. Bolted Anchor.
We rapped the Edge of Reason/ Being and Nothingness anchors on a single 70m.
From: Korea, Osan AB
Jul 2, 2015
|Last pitch was awesome. Glad I brought my micro cams. Didn't use my #4.|
From: San Diego
Jul 20, 2015
|Hey, thanks for Beta. I started standard start...so hot, so slick, and some pretty suspect rock in dihedral..blew a perfect micro cam on body weight. Ended up on 5.9 crack to left then...so hot...next year. thanks again!|