|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 85'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||426 on Mar 26, 2007|
|Comments on Cement Overshoes||Add Comment|
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By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Currently a sandbag with all the flying-creature fecal matter on the holds up high. The first four or five bolts protect some decently fun and techie moves, but the top sectionafter the big ledge restfelt just plain dirty and awkward. What's more, in place of nice Rawls, you have to clip some tat that is girth-hitched off old rusty all-thread bolts from a bygone industrial era. And the top anchors? Horrid. Sun-bleached nastiness and stiff biners' await you. With some anchor-love, however, this climb might be as popular as its friends to the right. The cruxwhich I thought came at the topseemed much less straightforward than the crux to Flashflood.
Do everyone a favor and donate to the anchor-replacement fund at Wilsons.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Jan 16, 2015
By Marek Marek
Mar 30, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I think this route has changed quite a bit since the older posts. I found it to be quite sustained on crimpy edges with a couple of needed rests.
There is an actual anchor with mussy hooks at the top.
I found only one 5" diameter drilled hole, right below the anchor that had some bird crap. That hold can actually be easily skipped in favor of a large edge above it.
There is a crack in the key flake right past the first bolt. Not sure how long it will stay around.
Overall, a pretty good climb. Felt like 12c to me, similar to Cry Baby or Faith No More.