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Cedar Rock

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From MP's sister site:

Cedar Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.25532, -82.80667 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,758
Administrators: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Aug 1, 2008
Forecast:
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75° | 63°
Saturday

73° | 58°
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73° | 57°
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75° | 60°
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75° | 62°
Wednesday

75° | 63°
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A nice little route called cuttin' the rug. Jon l...

Description 

The view from the south side of Looking Glass encompasses a huge vista of Pisgah National Forest. To the west you can see several large but low-angle slabs. This is Cedar Rock Mountain. In 1986 Charles Ivey "discovered" a relatively easy approach to the hidden western aspect of the mountain. This is Cedar Rock proper. This steep, intimidating chunk of granite is one of the best face climbing venues in the region. Being a west facing cliff, it is cool on summer mornings and warm on winter afternoons. North Cedar is similar in nature to the west face but as an added bonus hosts some ice during the winter. South Cedar is completely different in character, being a large low angle slab covered with grooves and fun faces.

Getting There 

From Brevard, NC, follow US 64 west to Cathy's Creek Road on the right. Look for signs for Forest Service Camp Kuykendall. Follow Cathy's Creek for about 5.9 miles to an obvious car park on the right. Follow the trail for about a mile to Low Gap and the Art Loeb Trail intersection. Go straight for a quarter mile. At Butter Gap there is a junction of several trails. Go straight across to the unmarked trail which is an old logging road that leads to "regular" Cedar. If you are going up hill, you are headed towards North Cedar and Stone Depot. To get to South Cedar continue on Art Loeb for another mile or so, passing the shelter soon after Butter Gap.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

89 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',50],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',11],['5.9',16],['5.10',22],['5.11',25],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cedar Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cedar Rock:
Oh! Mr. Friction   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Angry Nomad   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   South Side
Darkness on the Edge   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Cedar Rock - North
Dandy Line   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Cedar Rock - North
Toads R Us   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Cedar Blossom   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 120'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Orangutan Flake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Raven's Arch   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Cedar Rock - North
Cedar Pie   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Details at Ten   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Banana Peel    5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Cedar Rock - North
Rawhide Arch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Caught Up in the Air   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Invasive Species   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Cedar Rock - North
Cut In The Rug   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Cedar Rock - North
Wild Ginger Root   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Petrified Cedar   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Sibling Revelry   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
I wanna be sedated   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Pawing the Void   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cedar Rock

Featured Route For Cedar Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: The line is in red.  The adjacent lines in green.

Common Ground 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a  North Carolina : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall
This is an excellent pitch that climbs the steep headwall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement". Of special note is that both WGR's first pitch and this one tend to dry before anything else on this part of the wall. Both pitches are in the mid 11 range as well, making for a good sustained 2 pitch outing. P-1 Climb pitch 1 of WGR.P-2Start by climbing Two In Agreement to the first bolt. From here move up and slightly left to a shelf and the first bolt of "common ground". Ma...[more]   Browse More Classics in North Carolina

Photos of Cedar Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: When the second pitch begins to get Real on Passio...
When the second pitch begins to get Real on Passio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Glass, John's Rock, and Cedar Rock from Ch...
BETA PHOTO: Looking Glass, John's Rock, and Cedar Rock from Ch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cedar Guidebook
Cedar Guidebook
Rock Climbing Photo: Caught Up In The Air- photo by Thomas Kelley
Caught Up In The Air- photo by Thomas Kelley
Rock Climbing Photo: Mega's ruled!
Mega's ruled!
Rock Climbing Photo: blank faces are scary places
blank faces are scary places
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean Cobourn on Caught Up In The Air  5.10, pitch ...
Sean Cobourn on Caught Up In The Air 5.10, pitch ...

Comments on Cedar Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Reardon
Apr 16, 2013
Check out grounduppublishing.com for a copy of your "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags", outlining 200+ climbs in this area. The book covers all 7 faces of Cedar in full detail, Victory Wall, Cathey's Creek, Pilot Rock, Fish Bowl Crag, and an abridged John Rock. You can order online or message me for a $23 copy. Enjoy!
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 15, 2013
+1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must.
By William Turner
From: Carmel, Indiana
Nov 5, 2013
what are the rules on bolting here?
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
Nov 7, 2013
No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job.

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